Winter is a season I crave towards the end of the warmer months. I love to layer, so cooler temperatures make getting dressed infinitely more interesting, and I’m a total sucker for a knitwear, jeans, woollen socks and loafers combo. The downside though, is my skin tends to crack like the Sahara Desert and by midwinter, I feel as though my entire body could benefit from a permanent intravenous H2O drip.
Because this happens to me every year without fail, I’ve developed a fairly reliable system for keeping my skin feeling as plump and comfortable as possible. For me, dehydration is the main issue, meaning my skin is lacking water, rather than oil, which is what we’re generally talking about when we describe skin as dry.
You can, somewhat confusingly, be oily and dehydrated at the same time. Knowing which camp your skin falls into is useful, because it helps you choose products that are actually addressing the problem rather than simply piling on richer creams. As a rule of thumb, dry skin tends to be flaky, dull and/or rough, while dehydrated skin may be tight or crepey, yet can still get oily throughout the day.
If your skin is also starting to feel the effects of our annual winter low, consider this my personal cold-weather survival kit. There’s a mix of investment buys and more wallet-friendly finds, big beauty names alongside local and smaller brands, so we’re not committing to any particular skincare aisle or price bracket.
Cleanser
If your skin is feeling dry, tight or dehydrated, you don’t want the first step of your routine undoing all your good work. A cleanser that removes makeup, SPF and grime without leaving your face feeling squeaky is the goal.
Balm and oil cleansers are particularly good if you wear makeup, as they dissolve oil-soluble debris such as makeup, sunscreen and excess sebum before emulsifying away with water. And yes, they can work brilliantly for oilier complexions too, as using an oil cleanser doesn’t automatically make oily skin oilier. If your skin tends towards dryness, a gentle cream cleanser is another good option, particularly if you want that soft, comfortable feeling immediately after rinsing.
Essence / Toner
Thankfully, we’ve moved well beyond the era of swiping astringent toner across our faces in an attempt to remove every last trace of oil. The new generation is far more appealing, with essences and toners designed primarily to add a lightweight layer of hydration after cleansing.
I particularly like this step in winter because it feels like giving my skin a drink before moving on to serums and moisturiser. Applying hydrating products onto slightly damp skin can also work particularly well with humectant ingredients, which attract and hold water. Think of the difference between a completely dry sponge and one that’s already slightly damp. A damp one is far more receptive to absorbing the serums and lotions that follow.
Day cream
During the day, I want hydration without feeling as though I have six layers of skincare sliding around underneath my makeup. My ideal moisturiser absorbs quickly, sits happily under sunscreen and foundation and doesn’t leave behind any lingering tackiness.
Gel creams are particularly good for this because they tend to feel lighter on the skin than richer creams, and Medicube’s PDRN Capsule formula is one of the best I’ve tried recently.
And because SPF remains an everyday step in winter too, there is a point at which the layering can all become a bit much. If that’s your bug bear, give your moisturiser a few minutes to settle before applying sunscreen. Or, if your SPF is sufficiently moisturising for your skin, streamline the routine and skip a separate day cream altogether.
SPF
I’ve said it many times before and I’ll say it again: the best sunscreen is the one you’re actually happy to apply every day. There’s very little point owning the world’s most technologically impressive SPF if you can’t stand how it feels on your face.
That said, these are two I genuinely rate. Innisfree’s Watery Sun Gel is especially good if you prefer something lightweight, as it layers beautifully over skincare without making everything underneath feel heavy. Raeso’s Sun Milk Drops has a very subtle tint and an incredibly fluid texture, making it a great option on days when you don’t feel like wearing much makeup.
Night cream
Nighttime is where I’m happy to bring out the heavier artillery. Without sunscreen or makeup going over the top, you can afford to use a richer moisturiser to help reduce water loss from the skin and seal in all the layers you’ve applied underneath.
Your night cream should generally sit towards the end of your routine, after whichever serums you use to target your own particular skin concerns. Medik8 Advanced Night Restore is a longstanding favourite, while Arke’s Bed Balm is a more recent discovery. It really is a balm (read: rich and oily) so I like to apply it well before I actually get into bed, giving it ample opportunity to settle before my head hits the pillow.
Cuticle care
Cuticles really hate winter, don’t they? Mine certainly do. Getting into the habit of applying cuticle oil regularly makes an enormous difference to both the skin around the nails and the nails themselves, particularly once cold weather, hand washing and indoor heating enter the equation.
Both of these options come in travel-friendly pen formats, which makes them easy to keep in your handbag or beside the bed without worrying about leakage. My preferred time to apply one is right before sleep, when I know it has a good uninterrupted stretch to do its thing without immediately being washed off again. A little consistency here can turn ragged winter cuticles around surprisingly quickly.
Hand cream
It is surprisingly difficult to find a hand cream that both absorbs quickly and actually does something substantial for very dry skin. Trust me, I’ve worked my way through a few.
My favourite, hands down (the pun is unavoidable) is Mixa’s Cica Repair+. It initially feels quite slick and rich, but give it a moment and it absorbs beautifully, leaving behind enough of a protective layer that my hands still feel comfortable after a wash or two.
For something from closer to home, Real World’s hand cream is a joy to use. I’ve only tried the Rose Geranium version, so can’t personally vouch for the other scents, but the fragrance is beautifully subtle and the cream sinks in quickly. It’s exactly the sort of thing I like to keep sitting beside my laptop as a visual reminder to use it.
Body lotion
Cold mornings don’t exactly inspire enthusiasm for standing around undressed applying body lotion, but unfortunately our skin doesn’t stop needing attention just because it’s hidden underneath layers.
Even if your commitment extends only to every second day, it’s better than full-blown seasonal neglect. Keep a bottle within arm’s reach in the bathroom and make it as easy for yourself as possible. It takes all of a minute and is one of those mundane beauty jobs that makes you feel like you’re looking after yourself.
Kiehl’s Crème de Corps has its cult following for good reason. It moisturises thoroughly without requiring an unreasonable amount of time before you can get dressed. Lately, I’ve also been using Pure Fiji’s lotion in the new Citrus & Mokosoi scent, which disappears into the skin remarkably quickly, which is essential when time is of the essence in a chilly bathroom.
