In the 1950s, eyebrows were arched and precise. The seventies brought with them the rise of a more feathery brow, then the eighties took things to the next level by leaning into a dark, bold eyebrow look. Of course, anyone old enough to have owned a pair of tweezers in the ’90s is likely still suffering the consequences of the trend towards the ultra-thin brow, while the 2000s have seen every shape, size, colour, and volume of brow come and go. So, in 2026, what’s the deal with eyebrows?
The idea of brow customisation is where we’re at currently — at least when it comes to getting your eyebrows done by a professional, which no doubt brings with it a collective sigh of relief. “The biggest evolution in brow artistry has been the move away from creating a fashionable brow shape and towards creating the right brow for the individual sitting in front of us,” says Penny Mahoney, founder of Lab Brow Bar. “Today’s clients are far more interested in enhancing their natural features than chasing whatever trend happens to be popular on social media.”
With the array of growth serums, brow-enhancing make-up, and professional treatments available right now, it really doesn’t matter whether you’re looking to get your best brows via more permanent means such as microblading, a temporary solution such as a wax and tint, or an everyday wash-off formula in the form of a brow pen. The options truly are endless and completely customisable. Let’s discuss.
Semi- and permanent in-salon brow services:
Brow tinting is still a popular treatment, especially if you already have full brows and you’re simply looking to tint the hairs to create more definition. However, if you’re a little follicularly challenged, you mightn’t find the results quite so satisfying. Enter hybrid brow stains, a treatment Mahoney says has become one of the most requested in salons. Unlike traditional tinting, hybrid brow stains colour on the brow hairs and the skin beneath to create a fuller, more defined look.
“The skin stain can last around a week, depending on skin type and aftercare, while the colour on the hairs lasts considerably longer than traditional tinting,” Mahoney explains. “This makes hybrid stains an excellent option for clients who want a more polished brow without the commitment of a permanent treatment.”
Brow lamination is another treatment that has grown rapidly in popularity, says Mahoney. “This technique restructures and redirects the brow hairs to create more lift, symmetry, and fullness. It is particularly beneficial for clients with unruly, downward-growing, or sparse brows and can dramatically enhance the appearance of natural brow density.”
At the more permanent end of the spectrum, cosmetic tattooing and microblading offer longer-term definition. These treatments implant pigment into the skin and can last for several years, although they do require maintenance and colour refresh appointments over time.
“When assessing a client, we consider a number of factors before making any recommendations. We look at their natural brow growth pattern, hair density, facial proportions, skin type, colouring and overall facial balance. We also consider practical factors such as how much maintenance they are willing to commit to and what role brows play in their daily beauty routine,” Mahoney explains.
“For example, someone with sparse brows and oily skin may achieve better results with a hybrid stain and customised shaping, while another client with thick, unruly brows may benefit more from lamination. Two people could request fuller brows, but the pathway to achieving that result may be completely different.”
Getting your best brows at home:
From powders to pencils, pens that create hair-like strokes and brow mascaras to lift and tame, no matter what type of natural brow you’re working with, there’s a product for you — promise. If you don’t have naturally full brows, a double- or triple-pronged pen such as L’Oréal Paris Faux Brow or Maybelline New York Brow Inserts can help you fake extra hair and fill in gaps without creating a brow that’s too solid.
Waxy pencils and powders are great for filling in gaps too, and pencils especially will give you the ability to easily define your brow shape. For anyone with brows that just need a little taming, you can’t go past a clear or tinted brow mascara for keeping strays in place.
A more long-term brow commitment, but one worth looking into if your brows are on the sparse side, is an eyebrow growth serum. These treatment products, best applied daily on clean skin, work by nourishing hair follicles, strengthening existing hairs, and extending the natural growth cycle of your brows, allowing them to stay in their growth stage for longer. The result, typically after four to six weeks, is denser, thicker, and fuller-looking brows.
Should you choose to go it alone or leave your brows in the hands of a professional, Mahoney says a natural look is what we should be coveting right now. “The best brow work should never be the first thing people notice.”
Brow growth serums
Make-up
This article originally appeared in the Spring ’26 issue of Fashion Quarterly.
Words: Lucy Slight.
