Notes from the Runway: Day four and five of NZFW Kahuria 2026

20 August 2026
By Fashion Quarterly

Join Fashion Quarterly on the ground at NZFW and read up on their post show notes.

The debut show for By Kai' at NZFW 2026. Photography: Ruby Jayne Hamilton.

By Kai

First thing Thursday morning, industry veteran but first-time designer, Makaira Lee, debuted her brand, ‘By Kai’. There was a mix of menswear and womenswear, resulting in a multifunctional collection that looked just as good from the back as it did from the front. Featuring a mix of beautifully draped pieces and utilitarian tailoring, the collection featured something for everyone. In tribute to her heritage, the accessories were contemporary iterations of traditional Fijian bags, belts and necklaces. From bikinis to cargo pants, there was truly something for everyone. To top it off, the collection was made in collaboration with her mum, Jeannie — their final bow at the end of the show left not a single dry eye in the entire room.

What we heard…

MIA, WZRD, Blood Orange and ’Isalei Lia by Fiji.

What we saw…

There was beautiful draping across the body, plenty of low backs and great utilitarian suiting. 

The beauty detail…

Glowing skin, glossy lips and wavy hair that embraces it’s natural texture.

Blink and you’d miss it…

Kai’s son arriving to watch his mum’s show. The whole audience crying (including the team from Ruby – Makaira’s former workplace – and Stan Walker) as she took her final bow with her mum. 

Overheard on the FROW…

“This doesn’t feel like a debut!”

Photography by Ruby Jayne Hamilton.

Zambesi

Zambesi opened the fifth day of NZFW with the most impressive setting of the week. Held at Ōkahu Bay overlooking the Waitematā Harbour, ‘Song to the Siren’ unfolded as the sun rose over the city. Guests took their seats with coffee and croissants in hand as the Ōkahu Bay Wharf transformed into a runway, with models appearing as though they had just stepped from the sea. A coastal palette of mustard, turquoise and chartreuse gave way to softer creams and, of course, Zambesi’s signature black. There was a distinctly siren-like quality throughout, with sheer fabrics and fluid draping complemented by seaside-inspired accessories: clear-heeled sandals, tiny bottles worn as necklaces and tulle detailing that resembled coral. Swipe through for a closer look at the inspiration behind the collection.

What we heard…

“I Think of You” by Hun Lynch.

What we saw…

An impressive setting at Ōkahu Bay, with the jetty becoming a runway. A coastal palette of mustard, turquoise and chartreuse gave way to softer creams and, of course, Zambesi’s signature black. There was a distinctly siren-like quality throughout. Sheer fabrics and fluid draping skimmed the body, as though the models had just stepped from the sea.

The beauty detail…

Mermaid-esque wet hair looks and barely there make-up.

Blink and you’d miss it…

Clear heeled sandals and little bottles worn as necklaces. Tulle detailing and accessories that resembled coral.

Overheard on the FROW…

“It’s looks like everyone is arriving at a funeral”
“Does my hair look good? I actually haven’t looked in the mirror.”
“My iPhone’s zoom is getting such a workout”

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