It is a truth universally acknowledged that a designer in want of sartorial inspiration will romance the past. For spring/summer 2026, that desire manifests in a renewed obsession with Regency silhouettes and Marie Antoinette-era opulence. Think corsetry softened (or deliberately exaggerated) by modern tailoring, Edwardian ruffles and sheer layers draped over hooped skirts. With Bridgerton continuing to shape the cultural appetite for undone corsets and courtship dressing, and Emerald Fennell’s latest Wuthering Heights adaptation reigniting our obsession with windswept romance, it suddenly feels as though everyone is dressing for a life lived in another era.
Nowhere was it clearer that the past was back en vogue than on the spring/summer 2026 runways. At Erdem, history took centre stage in a romantic collection inspired by Marie Antoinette and Hélène Smith, a late 19th-century French psychic and artist. High necklines, vintage lace and a modern reworking of the pannier dress defined the look.
Elsewhere, Simone Rocha offered a more wearable take on historic dressing, presenting a feminine collection punctuated by oversized crinolines peeking from beneath sheer skirts, ditsy florals and delicate bows — all rendered slightly off-kilter, with models clutching lace-trimmed pillows. Think regency girl in rebellion mode, returning home after a night spent on her best behaviour before the ton.
Craving a look that’s less Austen and more Brontë? Look no further than Dilara Findikoglu. At London Fashion Week, the designer leaned fully into gothic romance, sending out dishevelled corsetry and half-worn dresses on mud-streaked models, their wind-tousled hair conjuring visions of the Yorkshire moors. Alexander McQueen can also always be counted on to deliver fashion fantasy worthy of a period-drama heroine. The brand’s AW25 collection leaned into witchy romance, with intricate lace gowns in striking black and rich red, paired with exaggerated ruffled necklines and embroidered pelisse’s.
But how does this historical mood translate to real life? Look at Margot Robbie’s Wuthering Heights press tour, styled by Andrew Mukamal, for inspiration. While Schiaparelli couture and custom Chanel aren’t exactly everyday propositions, lace accents and a well-cut black dress — think the Roberto Cavalli square-neck, bell-sleeve LBD or the sheer Alexander McQueen lace dress Robbie wore during press junket interviews — deliver the drama in a far more wearable way.
Alternatively, let your accessories do the heavy lifting. A perfectly placed bow, antique brooch, or signet ring instantly nod to regency romance without overwhelming a look. Footwear, too, plays its part: ballet flats ground the aesthetic in everyday ease, while lace-up boots channel a more gothic sensibility. Miista’s aptly named Shelley boots feel particularly on point.
For better or worse, fashion’s current flirtation with period dressing feels less nostalgic and more escapist. This isn’t a history lesson — it’s a rose-coloured fantasy where corsets are optional, romance is dialled up, and drama is encouraged. So, dear gentle reader, the question remains: will you partake?
