A year on from Bronwyn’s NZFW debut, founder Sarah Street is back in the studio readying eight looks for the runway — this time anchored by a single idea: transparency. Ahead of the show, Street talks us through the archival references shaping the collection, the new wedge she can’t stop thinking about, and why, after all the down-to-the-wire chaos fashion week demands, having a back-up plan is non-negotiable.
In conversation with Sarah Street
We’re a few weeks out from NZFW — paint us a picture of what your studio looks like right now. Organised chaos or calm and considered?
It ebbs and flows between both, just like life I guess. I’m fortunate to have had the experience of last year’s debut at NZFW to understand a bit about what goes on, and what’s involved, but it’s certainly a big undertaking for any brand and a lot of work, which I don’t think a lot of people realise — the huge amount of work, expense and time that goes into what is ultimately less than a 10 minute show. In saying that, NZFW is such an exciting opportunity for small New Zealand brands like Bronwyn, and a chance to really showcase what we can do to the world. I’m so honoured to be included in the Studio alongside so many other inspiring and incredible designers, it’s a really great show to be a part of, I can’t wait to see what everyone presents.
How many pairs will you be showing on the runway and how do you decide which styles make the final cut?
We have a total of 8 looks. As part of a group shoe we’re capped at 8 looks to allow for a seamless presentation of all brands in The Studio. Editing the looks down is challenging, as each style has its own merits for being there, but I feel we’ve landed on 8 really strong cohesive pieces. We have some back up looks if, for whatever reason, we decide that some pieces don’t work on the day, what I’ve learned is with fashion week, it’s important to always have a back up plan!
What’s the most stressful moment in the lead-up to show day and how do you handle it?
I would say as a lot of it is quite down to the wire, so in a sense it’s quite challenging to prepare for that as a lot of it’s unknown until the last minute.
I think that just comes with the nature of fashion weeks and the fact that NZFW is an incredibly massive production to organise. There’s so many moving parts and so many different aspects that have to sync seamlessly, so having the ability to be flexible, to react quickly and to pivot if necessary is something you have to really be aware of going into fashion week, and to prepare with a solid plan, but to be comfortable for things not going to plan.
Have you ever had a last-minute disaster before a show — and if so, how did you recover?
Thankfully no biggies, but again, that back-up planning is key, having some spare looks just in case, that really helps with those potential disasters!
What’s the starting point for a Bronwyn collection — does it begin with a feeling, a material, an image, a woman?
It can really start from anywhere. Sometimes it’s someone I’ve seen on the street who carries themself really well, or they look really chic or cool or inspiring. Sometimes it’s just an idea that I get in my head that I immediately want to capture, sometimes it’s a material or a trim or heel shape I design that I become obsessed with and from there the branches of the collection start to grow and expand. At the moment I’m really inspired by archival designer pieces so I reference back a lot to those aesthetics and how I can interpret them in a way that feels true to the Bronwyn brand.
Is there a single reference or moment of inspiration that is anchoring this show?
The show collection is framed around the idea of Transparency; less distraction, more intention. I’m working with a really incredible clothing designer to make some pieces to showcase the footwear in a really elevated way. I’ll leave it there for now!
NZFW is such a specific design challenge — you’re creating for a runway but also for a real wardrobe. How do you hold both of those things at once?
Referencing the collection foundation here, that idea of intentional pieces is key. We like playing with versatility with removable trims and pops of colour, but also grounding the pieces with a sharp focus on comfort. Shoes that can be both runway and real wardrobe are the ones that feel great on, as well as look great. I’ve always said we have nods to trends, we’re not driven by them, and that’s what helps define what Bronwyn represents as a brand.
What’s the shoe that’s exciting you most in this show and why?
We have a really beautiful new wedge that I am OBSESSED with and I can’t wait to share.
What’s something about making shoes that people would be surprised to know?
I think people are surprised that shoes are predominantly hand-made, and that there’s up to 50 processes in any one shoe. It’s quite incredible working with our incredibly skilled makers to transform a concept or a sketch into something really beautiful and wearable.
What does the weeks leading up to NZFW feel like emotionally — is it electric, terrifying, both?
Definitely both, I get really nervous presenting anything as I am a Virgo and Type-A personality. I do think it’s a very vulnerable time for designers; you have done so much to prepare for this, and while it’s immensely exciting, it’s also really nerve wracking putting your work out there to be judged by everyone. Equally it is so inspiring to be around all these creatives; other brands, designers, hair and makeup artists, stylists, producers, curators, everyone involved is so inspirational!
After the show you feel like you could sleep for days; it’s physically, emotionally and mentally taxing, but one of the most exciting and fun things to be a part of on the fashion calendar and something I look forward to each year.
What does a Bronwyn woman look like to you — who are you designing for when you sit down to sketch?
She looks like all of us. I see her in all the women in my life in one way or another. She leads a busy life, she has a lot on her plate that she’s juggling. We want Bronwyn to support her through that journey, pieces that help her look good and feel good, whatever she’s tackling that day.
What would you love someone to feel when they see this collection on the runway in August?
I hope that every woman will look at our footwear and think, yes, that is absolutely something I can see myself in. Our shoes are renowned for being pretty comfortable as well as aesthetically beautiful, so I am also grateful when people put our shoes on they’re like OMG these are SO GOOD on. That is when I know we’ve nailed it, something that looks good, and feels amazing.
What will be the first thing you do when it’s over?
Last year we went out with family and friends for champagne and oysters, so this year it will be very much the same! As a small brand it’s really hard to celebrate the wins as there’s constantly so much to do but it’s also really important that you do celebrate them. Being part of NZFW is such a huge achievement that we’re just really aware to take a moment to pause, and celebrate that.
