After a 10-year hiatus, designer Tanya Carlson last night made her NZFW return with an off-site show featuring plenty of glamour and a special guest performance by Hollie Smith.
But while the Kiwi songstress’ surprise serenade was a highlight, the star of the show was the fashion itself. Comprised entirely of one-off pieces, the collection was a celebration of Carlson’s 20-year history, featuring archival fabrics and signature detailing. It was also a testament to the enduring yet always-evolving vision of the designer at the helm, who we caught up with post-show for a debrief.
It’s been 10 years since you last showed at NZFW. What prompted your return?
Our show for this year’s NZFW – Carlson, presented by Holden Astra – was an ode to our 20 years in fashion. The collection stands as a celebration of the history of Carlson’s design ethos with each piece a one-off, handcrafted, unique design created from our archived fabric collections. 90s sportswear is juxtaposed with demi couture, while combining other elements of vintage western, Chinoiserie and 60s eveningwear. Each one-off piece will be available for sale in our Ponsonby store.
How has the event and the lead-up to it evolved since your last time?
The event has grown and changed a lot. The focus has changed and opened up to include more of an opportunity for the public to be involved. The huge growth of social media and digital has also meant that people have more access to what’s going on behind the scenes, and there is a huge interest in that. But, in the end, it’s still about the fashion over and above everything else – and that passion and excitement around new collections is there as much as it ever was.
What has been your trick to staying sane?
Surfing. And going for long road trips in my Holden Cascada – preferably with the top down! It’s exciting that I get to combine those two things! This year, the collection is very different to anything I’ve ever done before. Every piece is a one-off handcrafted design utilising my extensive fabric archive. Bringing the beauty of those fabrics back to life has been an extraordinary gift to me.
Who or what is the muse behind your collection?
It’s everything from Jack White to vintage cowgirls, the film In the Mood For Love, to Run-D.M.C – it’s 20 years (and some) of film, music, art, fashion.
You are famous for your fabrics — what are some of the standouts this season, and do they have a special provenance?
Every piece from the collection has been created out of fabrics from my archive. The celebration and use of luxury fabrics – French laces, German velvets, vintage materials – alongside handcraft detailing is an absolute highlight for me.
What are your three favourite pieces from the collection and how will you be styling them next winter?
Watch out for a khaki quilted velvet jacket, a turquoise taffeta saloon dress, and black beaded velvet pants – three favourites for me. Stylist Sarah Stuart worked to create a magical mash-up of garments, outfits and styles.
This NZFW marks your 20th year in business — congratulations! What’s your secret to staying relevant in a notoriously fickle industry?
Classic tailoring and staying true to my design ethos. That means using beautiful fabrics, manufacturing exclusively in New Zealand and creating garments that last.
How does your NZFW collection reference the past?
It’s a celebration of the past – of the many influences that have informed my aesthetic over 20 years of Carlson. More directly, it’s 90s sportswear, vintage cowgirl – the look I rocked in my 20s – with a touch of Little House on the Prairie.
How does it look to the future?
While this collection celebrates the history of my label, it also sets a strong foundation for the future – giving me the creative freedom to reinvigorate my passion for design and love of beautiful garments.
How will you be celebrating now?
With a beautiful glass of Giesen wine and hanging out with family and friends who came for the show. And then sleep!
