The transformative power of vibrant lip colour

18 August 2022
By Fashion Quarterly

With the help of make-up artist Blair Gamblin, we share the secret of a bold lip.

Photography: Gallerystock.

Swiping on seriously good lip colour is akin to slipping into those one-of-a-kind outfits that boost your confidence no matter what life throws your way. And although nude hues and barely there shades — or non-existent colour, thanks Covid — have dominated in recent seasons, colourful, statement lip colour is making a bold comeback.

Blair Gamblin, manager of artistry and education for M.A.C. and Bobbi Brown New Zealand, explains how, after a few years of the minimalist approach, it’s now back to bold. “We welcome colour revival this season as we step out from behind the mask,” she says.

Embracing colour in your beauty routine doesn’t have to be complicated, nor does it mean using an endless number of products; it can be as easy as reaching for bold and beautiful lip colour. “Adding colour into your make-up routine seems most sophisticated when applied on the lips,” says Gamblin. “It’s the easiest and quickest way to upgrade your look in one quick swipe.”

Whether you’re fond of fiery red, electric pink or zesty orange hues, Gamblin acknowledges that deciding on the right shade of bright lip colour can be daunting. “As a general rule of thumb, I recommend choosing based on your skin’s undertone,” she explains. Gamblin says if you have cool undertones, the best lipsticks will have a blue or purple shade as its base. “For example, when going for a red lip, veer more toward deep bluish-reds (think cherry red) versus more orange ones. An orange-based red would be perfect for someone with a golden or warm undertone.” Regardless, at the end of the day, lipstick doesn’t need to be complicated and should be fun. “If that’s all too much, wear the colour that makes you feel good,” says Gamblin. “If a coral evokes confidence in you but doesn’t align with the “rules,” go ahead and rock it.”

Picking the perfect shade of bold colour is only part of the equation. From gloss to matte and velvet, with all the recent lip formula innovations, there’s never been so much choice. “We’ve seen some incredible new technology in the lipstick category over the past few years,” says Gamblin. “Velvet mattes that feel comfortable on the lips, long-lasting liquid formulas that don’t budge, plumping glosses sans the stickiness, and the make-up/skincare hybrid that provides much-needed nourishment and a soft hint of colour.” Texture, says Gamblin, often comes down to preference and how formulas feel on your lips. “At times, it’s also dependent on the occasion,” she explains. “Perhaps you need something matte and long-lasting for a dinner date or day of long work meetings, or perhaps you want to wear a bright pop of colour that won’t move around. Glossier textures work well if you’re heading out to the beach, want the appearance of more plump lips, or you simply want something a little more natural.” 

Clockwise from left to right: Estée Lauder ‘Pure Color Envy Sculpting’ lipstick in Dominant, $62, Charlotte Tilbury ‘Matte Revolution’ in Love Liberty, $55, NARS ‘Air Matte’ lip colour in Dragon Girl, $42, from MECCA, Chanel ‘Rouge Allure L’Extrait’ in Rouge Puissant, $85, Fenty Beauty ‘Stunna’ lip paint in Unlocked, $48, from Sephora, Gucci ‘Rouge à Lèvres’ liquid lipstick in Lizzie Tiger, $75, Bobbi Brown ‘Luxe Lip Colour’ in Parisian Red, $65, M.A.C ‘Amplified’ lipstick, in Do Not Disturb, $35, Tom Ford ‘Lip Color’ in Wild Ginger, $90.

Prep, prime, & apply

We spend so much time and money on products for the face and body, that often lip care comes last, if at all. “Prep is key if you plan to wear that statement lip,” says Gamblin. Gently exfoliating lips with a sugar scrub will slough away dry skin to reveal a fresh, smooth pout. “Follow with a layer of lip balm to form a protective barrier,” advises Gamblin. “Do this as part of your skincare prep and complete the rest of your make-up first to hydrate lips.” If you’re concerned about feathering, creasing, and your lip colour disappearing on you after it’s applied, Gamblin recommends patting off the lip balm and using M.A.C. Prep + Prime Lip. 

Using a lip liner might seem tricky to the uninitiated, but it doesn’t have to be challenging to master. “If you desire a sharp lip line or need to balance your lips with subtle overdrawing, you can outline first with a lip pencil,” explains Gamblin. She says having a lip pencil sharpener at hand is vital, “A sharp pencil will give you a sharp lip line.” And if you’re a lip liner amateur, Gamblin suggests lining the lips after applying lipstick. “Experiment with these two approaches to see which you like best.”

Stay all day

Not all lip colours are created equal, and if you want a lipstick that will stay put right around the clock, Gamblin says choosing the right formula and texture is vital. “Matte lipsticks have the best staying power,” she says. Lining your lips will help, too: “Line the edge of your lips and then fill in with lip liner as this gives the lipstick something to adhere to.” 

Although lip formulas have come a long way, touching up colour during the day or evening will help to keep your look fresh and vibrant. Gamblin’s touch-up essentials include a compact mirror, as well as a pointed cotton swab to correct any smudges or lipstick bleeding throughout the day. As long-wearing liquid lipsticks sometimes need a touch-up during the day to refresh and make lips look less dry, Gamblin suggests carrying a small bag of M.A.C.’s biodegradable Gently Off Wipes + Micellar Water. “Remove the whole lip, apply a dab of concealer around the edges of your lips and reapply a fresh coat of your lipstick.”

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