Retinal versus retinol? A guide to choosing the right vitamin A for your skin

14 November 2024
By Fashion Quarterly

Unpacking the science behind two powerhouse skincare ingredients—learn how retinal and retinol differ and which one may suit your skin best.

Stella McCartney S25. Source: Launchmetrics.com/spotlight

Retinoids are a true cornerstone of luxurious skincare, with the power to refine and rejuvenate the skin. Yet when it comes to choosing between retinol and retinal, the subtle differences can make all the difference in achieving an optimal glow. So, what’s the difference between retinol and retinal, and is one better than the other? We speak to Daniel Isaacs, chief product officer at Medik8 on the unique benefits of retinol and retinal, helping you decide which is suitable to your skin’s needs—and how to elevate your routine for a visibly radiant complexion.

A guide to using retinal and retinol

1. What is the main difference between retinal and retinol?

Retinol and retinal are both forms of gold standard anti-ageing ingredient, vitamin A (also referred to as ‘retinoids’). However, some key molecular differences between retinol and retinal make them behave differently when they interact with the skin. When applied to the skin, vitamin A travels through several conversion stages known as the ‘vitamin A pathway’. Retinol first converts to retinal, and then to retinoic acid (the most active form of vitamin A). Retinal is only one conversion step away from retinoic acid on the vitamin A pathway, and therefore works faster than retinol to combat visible signs of ageing. Unlike retinol, retinal also possesses antibacterial properties which help to tackle blemish-causing bacteria on top of delivering its many age-defying benefits.

2. Which is more suitable for sensitive skin?

Historically, vitamin A has been associated with irritation including redness, peeling and purging. However, [Medik8’s] breakthrough Crystal Retinal serum ensures remarkable visible results without the common downsides associated with traditional vitamin A formulas. This is all thanks to our patented, game-changing stabilisation system.

3. How quickly can people expect to see results with retinal versus retinol?

Containing next-generation retinal which acts 11x faster than standard retinol*, Crystal Retinal is clinically proven to deliver visible improvements on wrinkles as well as skin smoothness and brightness in as little as 7 days.**

*G. Siegenthaler et al., Retinol and retinal metabolism, Biochemical Journal, 1990, 268, pp 371-378
**Proven via independent clinical study on the Crystal Retinal ladder tested on 30 participants over 24 weeks.
Daniel Isaacs, Chief Product Officer, Medik8. Supplied.

4. Can both retinal and retinol help with anti-ageing and acne? Are there any complaints one might help with over the other?

Vitamin A works by speeding up skin cell regeneration to reveal the newer, brighter and fresher skin cells underneath. In doing so, it helps to combat common ageing concerns such as fine lines and wrinkles, dark spots, dullness and uneven texture.

For those brand new to vitamin A, or who have tried mild retinol formulas, we would recommend you start on Crystal Retinal 3 (0.03% crystal-encapsulated retinaldehyde) and work your way up the ladder. If you have exceptionally sensitive skin, begin on Crystal Retinal 1 (featuring 0.01% crystal-encapsulated retinaldehyde). 

5. How can you incorporate retinal or retinol into your routine?

We recommend gradually introducing retinol and retinal into your existing nighttime routine. Our phased approach helps your skin adjust comfortably to vitamin A, ensuring a smooth and effective experience. Start by using it twice a week for the first 2 weeks, then every other night for the next two weeks, and then nightly. Once your skin has adjusted and built tolerance, you can move on to a higher strength vitamin A, making your way up our unique ladder of progressive strengths.

When moving up within the Crystal Retinal ladder (e.g. from Crystal Retinal 3 to Crystal Retinal 6), there’s no need to phase in, but you must complete at least 1 tube of the previous strength before advancing. For Crystal Retinal 24, our highest strength, monitor your skin closely during the first two weeks of use. If you experience any sensitivity, reduce the amount of product you apply or apply every other night to begin with.

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