After making its triumphant return to the Viaduct yesterday, NZFW continued today with a strong focus on emerging designers. The energy was high, the sun was out (although it later turned to rain), and we were eagerly looking out for new designers to covet. Like the day prior, our team divided our time between the shows, coming together at the end of the day for the oh-so-fun and colourful Kathryn Wilson show, who was celebrating 20 years in business. Between The Graduate Show that kicked things off and Cecilia Kang’s high-drama spectacle of sequins and tulle, the vibe was experimental and entertaining.
With more generous pauses between shows, we took it upon ourselves to follow our own guide on where to stay, sup and shop during this NZFW and headed for Bivacco. After a decadent early dinner and some dirty martinis and margaritas, we realised we were running late for Kathryn Wilson, so the entire team fled our Uber and made a literal run for it ( a testament to Amberley’s Scarpa heels) down Halsey Street towards the venue.
All in all, day two was a refreshing look at the future of New Zealand fashion.
Read on for our summary of each show:
The Graduate Show
It was perhaps the longest show of NZFW so far – and for good reason. Showcasing the talent from three universities (Massey University, Otago Polytechnic, and Whitecliffe College) the runway featured 18 new designers. While the segue between designers got a little lost at times there were still some standouts. We adored Mila Jeon’s and her structural creations, Lydia Paine’s natural fibres and timeless silhouettes, and the over-the-top tulle gown creation from Ivantino definitely opened the show with maximum impact.
Susana Tasi
The first thing to note about Susana Tasi is that green was everywhere. Vivid colours are emerging as a big trend so far this year at NZFW and Tasi followed suit. The designer first showcased in May last year at Pasifika Fusion’s Fashion show held in Papatoetoe, South Auckland. In the collection, which was designed as an homage to her mother’s narrative about migrating to Aotearoa in the ‘60s from the small village of Falelima, Savai’i in Samoa, Tasi recalled the vivid, classic styles that her mother donned during her childhood.
The opening and closing looks of Tasi’s NZFW show were also debuted at her Pasifika Fusion show – dramatic, boldly-coloured garments which incorporated flax detailing as a nod to the designer’s roots. The looks that followed were a balance between theatrical and pragmatic, showcasing more traditionally corporate wear such as shirting, tailored pants and blazers in vivid colourways (primarily green).
Lontessa
New Zealand-raised, Singapore-based designer Tessa Lont debuted at fashion week today with her label Lontessa, a show which turned out to be a three-part spectacle of colour, texture, and culture.
The show began with a performance by a Kapa Haka group before the first model emerged, and what followed was a myriad of looks imbued with references to Lont’s Māori ancestry. Utilitarian-esque pants and shorts were juxtaposed with linen frills and various statement pieces, and each section of Lont’s show was broken up with another performance from the Kapa Haka group.
Braids have emerged as a big beauty/hair trend this fashion week, and this show was no exception, as models rocked sleek twisted braids down the runway along with dark, shadowy makeup that sculpted the contours of the models’ faces.
Cecilia Kang
Blurring the lines between performance art and fashion, the Cecilia Kang runway in partnership with Estelle.NZ doubled down on high drama with their edit of formal, and sometimes experimental, gowns. Laced with sequins, tulle, accordion-esque structures and the occasional feature feather, we could wax poetic on the sheer quantity of details featured in the collection. The atmosphere was cinematic with a backdrop of bright red/orange light and an intense soundtrack befitting an action film. While colour was widespread, we were partial to the monochromatic looks that paired black and white textiles adorned in Victorian-inspired brooches with considered layers.
Cecilia first debuted her eponymous label at New Zealand Fashion Week in 2018 as part of the New Generation Emerging Couture show. There, she made history as Aotearoa’s first transgender woman to showcase at the prestigious international event. In terms of continuing to push the boundaries, Cecilia Kang’s selection of models ticked all of the diversity boxes which added another dimension to her 2023 show.
Kathryn Wilson
The brand is known for its iconic runway shows and tonight did not disappoint. If there was one word to sum it up, it would be fun. Pops of colour dominated the runway in the form of leather shorts, frilly blouses and voluminous dresses. And of course, there were the shoes – Kathryn Wilson’s signature platforms, mules, boots and slides in various vivid hues, metallics and textural forms.
Offering a bold beauty look compared to the majority of the shows we have seen thus far, models wore fluorescent shoulder-length wigs in just about every shade of the rainbow care of Danny Pato and the D&M team. Pairing this with a glittery lid, there was a serious Gem and the Holograms vibe. Models strutted with a bounce in their step, exchanging waves and hi-fives with every model they crossed paths on the elevated runway, almost as if to say ‘Hi, Barbie!’.
Tunes included sing-alongs by Fleetwood Mac, Depeche Mode, and Beyonce, and honestly by the end the whole room was smiling. It was absolutely refreshing and a salve to the years absent of NZFW.
That’s a wrap on day two
We concluded the night at one of Kathryn Wilson’s favourite stomping grounds – Soul Bar – for the after party, where we were greeted at the door by delightful Malfy Gin cocktails and several giant disco balls. It felt like the perfect way to round off day two and we left feeling energised and ready to take on the final full day of shows.
