Likened to France’s region of Burgundy, Wairarapa’s Martinborough is the epicentre of exquisite wine. But there’s one producer who has long been the go-to for those who know their wine: Palliser Estate.
Gaining traction for their Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, Palliser Estate has embraced the changing climate to create truly spectacular wines to sip and savour. Positioned in the remote southernmost point of New Zealand’s North Island, Cape Palliser (Mātakitaki-a-Kupe) is wild and weathered. With vineyards inland from where the Ruamahanga River meets the sea, Palliser Estate wines possess a terroir that’s complex and elegant – Chardonnays that are intensely fruity and creamy with a hint of minerality; and Pinot Noirs that are juicy and expressive with piquant acidity.
What makes the Martinborough wine region unique?
Though they share similar soil composition, Martinborough’s Pinot Noir’s exhibit a fruitier profile than the French counterpart of Burgundy attributed to the younger vines and a microclimate characterised by warmer days and cooler nights. Factoring in the extreme weather conditions which encourage the vines to dig their roots deep into the soil to survive, and the low rainfall, these elements translate into wines that have concentrated flavours that are savoury and structured.
What are the benefits of organic wine?
Palliser Estate’s dedication to organics and biodynamic practices is both philosophical and practical, enriching their wines with an authentic earthiness. With vineyards like Hua Nui, Om Santi, and The Winery already certified organic, and more undergoing conversion, Palliser Estate aims to have all six vineyards fully converted by 2028. This transition not only captures the true essence of their terroir but also ensures healthy soils for generations to come.
And it’s not just the environment that benefits from organic wine – there’s plenty to discover in the glass as well. By nurturing the purity of fruit and expression of terroir, organic wines offer a sensory experience characterised by rich aromatics and a genuine sense of place. Additionally, lower sulfite levels in organic wines can contribute to a softer mouthfeel, too.
How climate change is impacting wine
For Palliser Estate, sustainability is not a box-ticking exercise, it’s a covenant bound by decades of gratitude to the land, river, and generations past and future. You can expect wines both still and sparkling, organic (or on their way to being organic), and flavours that are informed by their environment.
Committed to excellence always, Palliser Estate continues to evolve and embrace the changing conditions. For example, Pinnacles Vineyard, situated on a north-facing slope on the northern edge of the Terrace, has just seen its first Syrah pick. The fine clay and soil site, which revealed desirability for producing exquisite sparkling, became increasingly suitable for Syrah. Planted in 2020, the Syrah are an acknowledgment of the gradual warming taking place in this region and is a way of future proofing against continued warming.
TLDR: the wines to try
Martinborough is small but magnificent, producing just one percent of our nation’s wines. Thanks to two scientists in the late-’70s who first planted the Pinot grape, Martinborough has become the best-kept secret for sommeliers and wine connoisseurs alike. But as the climate continues to change, so too will the flavours inherent in Palliser Estate’s portfolio. And while the proof is in the pour, we also have it on good authority that Palliser Estate is set to release a Syrah that will attract discerning red wine drinkers.
FQ’s current favourites on rotation:
