Meet our Friday Muse Ayrburn’s Master of Wine Sophie Parker-Thomson

22 August 2024
By Fashion Quarterly

If you came here looking for expert tips on selecting and appreciating wine, you were right. This week's muse discusses wine trends, work/life balance and why you can't beat vintages produced in Aotearoa.

Although Ayrburn’s Master of Wine grew up surrounded by wine with parents involved in wine production, tourism, and hospitality, Sophie Parker-Thomson initially pursued a legal career, studying law in Dunedin. However, her love for wine eventually drew her back to the industry, where she has made a significant impact. Today, Sophie runs a wine consultancy that has taken her and her husband across the globe, including regular vintages in Europe and exciting projects like Ayrburn in Central Otago.

In this Q&A, Sophie shares her insights on the rewards and challenges of her role, the latest trends shaping the wine industry, and the importance of sustainability in winemaking, offering a glimpse into the world of a Master of Wine. 

In conversation with Sophie Parker-Thomson

Let’s get up to speed on your career to date:

I live in beautiful Marlborough with my husband and daughter where we make wine under our small batch fine wine brand Blank Canvas. I am the only Master of Wine in the South Island, and one of only 416 worldwide, of which just 147 are women. While I grew up in wine regions with my parents involved in wine production, tourism and hospitality, I studied and trained as a lawyer in Dunedin before my husband Matt drew me back into the wine industry for good! Together we have a wine consultancy that takes us around the world including to Europe for vintage every year as well as some special projects, most notably Ayrburn in Central Otago.

Can you share some of the most rewarding and challenging aspects of your role?

The most rewarding aspects are the incredible people you meet within the Master of Wine network, and the global respect that the qualification brings. We are fortunate enough to travel extensively around the world for work and wherever you go, you can be assured of an enthusiastic and warm greeting and a keen audience wanting to listen to you and share their own insights also.

The most challenging aspects are managing time and having to say no to opportunities. It’s very easy to overload yourself with work and one of the most important things has been learning how to say no as it’s impossible to do everything. Maintaining a work-life balance is so important and because we have so much going on we’re probably guilty of being a little too much on the work side. The justification of that is if you’re doing what you love it’s not so much like work!

What trends are you currently seeing in the wine industry?

There has been a decline in wine consumption over the past couple of decades which has worried those within the industry. However, it’s the very inexpensive and often characterless wine that is suffering. Consumers are drinking less but better quality wine. So while there has been a reduction of global wine volume produced each year, the average quality and value is much higher, which puts New Zealand wine in a very good position.

Terroir plays a significant role in the characteristics of a wine. Can you explain how Ayrburn’s offering is different and what we can expect from the 2024 releases?

Ayrburn’s wine range is about exploring and celebrating the different terroirs of Central Otago, intertwined with the wonderful storytelling element inspired by the history of the Ayrburn farm itself. We’re continuing to seek out vineyards that align with Ayrburn’s vision of being the premier destination for high calibre food and drink. We carefully match the vineyard’s soils, microclimate, viticulture and clones for the particular variety and style we’re making, whether that be Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Rose or Pinot Noir. 2024 was a high-quality vintage across the region so in these wines you’ll see bold but defined fruit flavours with real energy and presence alongside excellent intensity and concentration on the palate.

The Manure Room, Ayrburn. Image: supplied.

Can you tell us about the role sustainability plays in your industry, and specifically at Ayrburn?

It goes without saying that sustainability is top of mind for most quality focused wine producers, which extends beyond just environmental, encompassing sustainability from a people, business and community aspect also. The wine industry in New Zealand is at the very forefront of sustainability initiatives, having introduced the pioneering Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) certification in 1995, of which 96% of national vineyards and wineries are signed up to today.

All of Ayrburn’s vineyards and wines are SWNZ certified and there’s a real focus on working with growers who incorporate additional sustainable and/or regenerative practices in their vineyards. Using local suppliers is another way sustainability objectives are achieved. At Ayrburn Farm, there has been a significant focus on native planting, removal of wildings, and a number of revitalisation steps to improve stream health and biodiversity and encourage more wildlife to return.

For aspiring wine enthusiasts and collectors, what advice would you give when it comes to selecting and appreciating fine wines? 

Find a wine critic whose palate is similar to yours – one of the big mistakes that many made during the Robert Parker era was that their palate was the same as his and therefore bought his top rated 100-point wines only to find they weren’t to their own taste. Parker liked big, alcoholic, oaky wines and rewarded wines that fitted this style and was writing up the wines he liked, and wineries followed this style preference in an attempt to get a great score. Coincidence or not, with Parker having retired, we’re seeing a movement toward fresh, elegant and more moderate to low alcohol wines. So, whether you like bigger riper wines or fresher elegant styles, find the critic that you align with and use their scores as a guide for wines you should buy. Pay close attention to vintages and buy the good ones – vintages matter a lot in both the Old World and the New World.

The Barrel Room, Ayrburn. Image: supplied.

Quick-fire questions...

The most cherished item in my home is… Our wine cellar, of course!
My favourite place to dine… Sid at The French Café (Auckland, New Zealand).
My next holiday destination… will be mostly work but there’ll be time for leisure on the weekends in Verona, Italy next month for vintage.
Best fashion purchase recently… a pair of Lacoste white sneakers.
My guilty pleasure TV show or movie is… at the moment, The Bear
Favourite season and why… Autumn in Marlborough, the colours, harvest time and Indian summer conditions we get.
If I had to listen to one musician for the rest of my life it would be… Fat Freddy’s Drop
Three beauty products I can’t live without… BB Cream / protective moisturiser, purple shampoo & conditioner, and a trusty wand of mascara.

Images: Supplied

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