For this week’s Friday Muse, we sit down with Jane Eppstein, a jeweller who has gone from investment banking to crafting exquisite jewellery. Now based in Days Bay, Wellington, Jane tells us how her upbringing in Berkshire, UK, and her global travels have shaped her vision. We talk about the fluidity of design schedules, her latest collection Continuum, and how she translates abstract concepts—like dreams and consciousness—into tangible, wearable forms.
In conversation with Jane Eppstein:
Where did you grow up?
Berkshire, United Kingdom. I grew up with lots of bike rides and country pub lunches, but was near enough to the bright lights of Reading (which had essential things like TopShop and the Odeon Cinema).
Tell us a bit about your career to date in a few sentences?
Before a jewellery career was ever on my radar, I worked in investment banking in London. The people I worked with were really fun (and so was the money ha..) but the work wasn’t. I decided to take a break after five years. In the pursuit of exploring my creative side, I took a short jewellery course followed by a full time course at London Metropolitan University, which then led to working for some amazing jewellery designers. I met my Kiwi husband Tom in London and we moved to Wellington in 2007, which is when the brand began in a very experimental way. Nowadays, I work from a home studio now, so our house is really chaotic but thankfully there is room for all my noisy jewellery machines. My family is tolerant but needless to say, I conduct my wedding ring and bespoke appointments in a much smarter location on Cuba Street.
What was the pivotal moment that made you decide to follow your passion for creating fine jewellery?
Being surrounded by so much visual inspiration in London made me realise there was so much more out there than suits and spreadsheets. I was the product of very academic schooling, which I am grateful for, but I hadn’t realised that doing something creative with my life was actually a real option. It was a friend who first introduced me to the jewellery making world, and I felt drawn to do something more ‘real’ than playing with numbers all day. Travel has luckily been a huge part of my life, the art, architecture, history and general vibe of various cities of the world all go into both the design and my thoughts about how pieces will be worn. For one, I see my bangles as sculptures that I picture being worn in a contemporary dance setting, well as simply at home while turning the page of a book.
Your collections are released sporadically and depend mostly on personal timing. How does this unique approach shape your creative process, and what can your customers expect from your upcoming collection Continuum?
Conjuring up jewellery designs out of thin air on a schedule doesn’t work effectively for me. I like to wait for an idea to come, and then go with it at that time. With Continuum, sculpture and surrealism merge into a small collection of very wearable special pieces, from which I hope wearers will feel a pulse connecting to their own.
It’s also interesting that Continuum explores the connection between our thoughts, dreams, and the continuous pulse of consciousness. How do you translate such abstract ideas into tangible jewellery pieces?
The first piece from this collection to take shape was the Continuum Bangle – which has the form of a pulsing heartbeat or thought wave. The link between thoughts and dreams is then explored in the Connected Necklaces. Both of the central components to these are my interpretation of what a dream looks like – irregular, continuous and a bit like a cloud or pool of water even. My process is very much sculptural these days. I like to gradually ‘feel’ a design take place by carving or sculpting the initial form in wax. I prefer this to pencil and paper or CAD design techniques.
A part of the collection’s form was also inspired by your travels through Spain earlier this year, what were your favourite moments from that trip?
The buildings of Barcelona were all so beautiful – the effort that’s been made to keep them in their original form is impressive all over the city. My favourite thing to do there was to eat ice cream while walking in the old city, or to sit out in a square in a laid back residential neighbourhood, such as El Poblenou, eating tapas. The architecture of Antoni Gaudi is fascinating too, particularly his undulating ‘melting candle wax’ stone works. I also can’t leave out swimming off the rocks each day at Costa Brava.
Sustainability is at the heart of your brand, from using recycled materials to ethical sourcing. Can you share some specific practices or challenges you’ve encountered?
When you run a small jewellery brand crafted using only materials from New Zealand suppliers and you make the product yourself, processes are fairly transparent. It is easy for me to have direct conversations with all my suppliers about how they source and refine their metals, and know for certain that they have ethical working practices. Of course, using recycled precious metals also means that there is a much lower impact on the environment than having to mine it from the ground.
You emphasise the balance between aesthetics and functionality in your designs. Can you describe a piece that embodies this interplay, and how do you envision your jewellery enhancing everyday life for your customers?
The Ophidian Ring is an example of a much loved piece that balances form and function. Made in the form of a smooth sculptural snake, the ring is decorative and winds around your finger, yet great care is taken to ensure each one is truly wearable every day. I ensure that the head and tail sit perfectly flush against the finger to minimise the chance of the ring catching on anything. There’s no better way to add moments of calm beauty to your day than by having your own personal shiny treasure to look at and for others to admire too.
Let’s talk about your personal style. How would you describe it and how has it evolved over time? Does your profession influence what pieces you routinely reach for/repeat purchase?
My style is a mix of masculine and feminine. I love oversized men’s blazers paired with jeans and ballet shoes, or with a dress. Being a jeweller, I get covered in red polishing dust every day which limits my options somewhat while working. Mostly, you will find me in denim during the week (generally styled with my very chic x2 magnification head visor..). My style has become more elevated over time, and I now appreciate a well-made piece more than I used to, which means I can’t afford to shop too often. I often buy pre-loved garments.
Quick-fire questions
My go-to New Zealand designers are… Ellis, Zambesi, Marle.
The next item on my wardrobe wishlist is… An Ovna Ovich ‘Chaos’ scrunchie and ‘Shall We’ blouse.
My favourite place to dine… Kisa. Their fried brussel sprouts are great.
My next holiday destination… LA, Copenhagen or Mexico.
My guilty pleasure TV show or movie is… No guilty TV, honestly! I’m loving the series, Pachinko though.
Three beauty products I can’t live without… Ere Perez concealer from Iris Store + Studio, Clinique chubby stick, Bon Parfumeur no. 802.
