Since he was appointed as the new creative director of menswear at Louis Vuitton in February 2023, we have been waiting with anticipation to see what Pharrell Williams would bring to the luxury fashion house. Last week, Williams unveiled his first campaign for the brand, which featured a pregnant Rihanna wearing an undone Damier-print shirt and holding armfuls of Speedy bags. This campaign would foreshadow what was to come the following week, as on the evening of June 20th, the creative director also showcased his first collection for Louis Vuitton – the Spring/Summer ‘24 menswear collection – which took place at the iconic Pont Neuf bridge in Paris.
With a star-studded guest list in attendance and the picturesque Seine within view, a diverse range of models including women stormed the runway to the music of a live orchestra. Amongst a mostly neutral colour palette of brown, black, green and navy, there were pops of red and yellow punctuating the collection. Structured tailoring was juxtaposed with baggier garments, delivering a selection of silhouettes that blurred the lines of gender.
No downtime for the Damier print
Most notably, Louis Vuitton’s signature Damier print, which has been used by the brand since 1889, has been given a cool contemporary makeover. “I knew that I wanted to really lean into the Damier, something that hadn’t had such a great concentration on it, and we did so by using the Damier as a platform and as a new artistic discipline, and we have some really interesting expressions,” said Williams in an interview with WWD. Drawing inspiration from his esteemed predecessor, the late Virgil Abloh, who released pixelated iterations of the Damier print in 2018, Pharrell Williams showcased his own interpretation for Spring/Summer ’24 unveiling a pixelated ‘Damouflage’ (Damier print camouflage). Seen on everything from rain boots and coats, to the iconic Louis Vuitton trunks.
Accessories were also a clear focus for Williams in the collection, as almost every model carried a bag down the runway, ranging from small crossbody styles to full sized trunks – there was even a model driving an open-air golf cart to transport the precious cargo. Pearl detailing was utilised to provide an elegant touch to some of the more masculine garments, featuring on sunglasses, chains, beanies and earrings.
The collection for lovers
Other design elements included a new take on the Louis Vuitton logo, which involved merging the iconic ‘LV’ with the word ‘lovers’ to create ‘LVers’. According to the show notes “LVers is a state of mind: warmth, well being and welcome-ness. It is the culture of a global community connected by an appreciation for the core values of the maison.” Seen splashed across leather bomber jackets and embroidered on berets, LVers is anything but quiet luxury.
All in all, the show was a positive and captivating debut for Williams. While staying true to the brand codes of Louis Vuitton, the creative has injected an youthful essence into the maison with his first collection. As the first celebrity to make the move from the music industry into a fashion role of this level, only time will tell what the creative will do with the brand moving forward.
Images: launchmetrics.com/spotlight.
