For summer, we want what Jacquemus is serving.
With fashion’s impossibly fast cycle and an unpredictable climate, the relevance of seasonal runway shows has long been up for debate, pushing designers to showcase their collections outside the confines of their respective fashion weeks or stepping away from them altogether.
Bucking their demise each year is French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus, who launched his eponymous label in 2009, with captivating international destinations forming idyllic backdrops for his playfully minimalist collections and aggregate of celebrity guests.
Past runways included the lavender fields in the South of France for the SS20 ‘Le Coup de Soleil’, the salt marshes of Aigues-Mortes for Fall 2022 ‘ Le Papier’, and the barley fields of Vexin National Park for Spring/Summer 2021 ‘L’Amour’.
The location
For Fall 2023, Jacquemus transported guests to the manicured gardens of King Louis XIV’s Palace of Versailles just outside of Paris, France to present their ‘Le ChouChou’ collection.
“I was so inspired by this historical place during the design process that it led me to explore many new creative possibilities, different from my past shows, but still very Jacquemus,” Simon Porte Jacquemus told WWD ahead of the show.
“I am really honoured and proud to be able to do a show there, as an independent fashion house. It’s going to be a very special moment for Jacquemus.”
The collection
Models descended upon a strawberry-red carpet-lined runway while guests sat in rowboats in awe of yet another cinematic show by the brand. The collection toyed with figure skimming lace bodices, tulle skirts, and voluminous proportions. For the most part it was sensual and feminine pairing lingerie and lace knee high socks with blunt block-toed ballet shoes. Supporting looks were reminiscent of vintage Riviera stripes leveraging a palette of black, red, and blue, or monochromatic polka dots and reflective chrome and crystal embellishments.
For the menswear, Jacquemus kept refinement at the fore with peplum detailing, dropped waist white trousers, polo shirts, beaded fringing, adorned tailoring, cold-shoulder knitwear, and – in true Jacquemus fashion – decorated campy accessories and Ken-esque hair.
The beauty
The beauty was kept sleek: hair was pulled back into low buns with deep partings and lashings of gloss; makeup was minimal with lips stained a shade or two darker than the models’ natural lip colour complementing a subtle wash of warm shadow across their lids; and their brows were full and groomed. The jewellery selection echoed the venue’s opulence with regal pearl and sapphire chokers, drop earrings, and sculptural metals.
The details
Bloomers and baby doll silhouettes – similar to what was showcased at Maggie Marilyn’s recent show in Sydney – reinforce this new era of female with a nod towards optimism and the west’s enduring love affair with French themes.
Notable models included Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner, and celebrity guests in attendance included Victoria and David Beckham, Monica Bellucci, Eva Longoria, Emily Ratajkowski, and Claire Foy – to name a few.
Jacquemus Fall 2023 'Le ChouChou' collection:
