Look one way in Istanbul and you may see thousands of blue and white tiles covering the walls of palaces and mosques, look the other and you’ll see thousands of coffee shops with vines climbing up to the city apartments above. In a strategic position between Asia and Europe, Istanbul has traditionally been seen as a place of opulence and expansion. Beyond territorial boundaries, the Door to Happiness (as the city has come to be known) gives the impression that the sky is, in fact, the only limit here.
Must Visits
Having been both the capital of the Byzantine Empire and the Ottoman Empire (known as Constantinople), Istanbul is a treasure trove of ancient history. The Old Town visually represents how the city has built, and built, upon its complex legacy.
Start with a leisurely walk through the Hippodrome, where there were official ceremonies, gladiator games and the infamous Nika riots. In what would have been the spina, the Serpent Column from Delphi and the Obelisk of Theodosius from Egypt are intricate artworks to behold. You’ll see these as you make your way to the Blue Mosque, which is resplendent in 20,000 rare Iznik tiles and 260 stained-glass windows. Across manicured lawns, the Hagia Sophia stands. It has been a cathedral, a mosque, a museum, and a mosque again. As a landmark of Istanbul, visitors can still marvel at this architectural feat from under its seemingly endless 32-metre dome.
If you prefer palaces to pilgrimages, the 19th-century Dolmabahçe Palace on the European coast is one of the most glamorous in the world. High on the hill of the Fatih district, the Topkapı Palace is a fascinating museum that was formerly home to conquerors, sultans, harems and imperial councils, who have all made their mark since the 14th century. Make sure you have time to see the royal apartments’ gleaming interiors and the treasury’s 86-carat Spoonmaker’s Diamond.
When you need to take a break from such bustling attractions, the downtown Basilica Cistern is a cool place to reflect on all the names and dates you are trying to remember. The ancient underground reservoir has been artfully restored with its 336 eclectic columns, and the addition of modern art, reflected in its calm waters. One of the best ways to appreciate the true scope of the city is via a Bosphorus boat cruise – better yet, at sunset. There are a number of options on TripAdvisor. Most will cruise past the Bosphorus Bridge, The Rumeli Castle, Maiden Tower, Galata Bridge, and the summer palaces – as well as the aforementioned attractions – while serving baklava on the bow. If you are looking for a more exclusive experience, Bosphorus Cruise Tours offers charter yachts with a full-service meal.
Shopping Spots
The Grand Bazaar is the world’s largest enclosed bazaar, full to the brim with more than 4000 stores. You’ll be amazed by what you can find in tiny shops when you venture away from the main passageways, and you can always hire a tour guide if you are worried about getting lost. For those who find large markets overwhelming, there are plenty of other shops encircling the bazaar. Şirvani Lokum stocks Turkish delight and pomegranate tea, as well as silk scarves (important when you need to cover your hair at a mosque), patterned ceramics and homewares.
If you are in the market for an authentic Turkish rug, Gördes works with 2000 contracted looms, providing a full range of regional styles. At their showroom in the Old Town (in an old family home above the Basilica Cistern), you can learn the difference between double-knotted silk and wool rugs, and how to distinguish a machine-made product from the handcrafted original.
Of course, within a city of this size there are many other shopping districts to explore. Running from Taksim Square to Tünel Square in Beyoğlu, the İstiklal Caddesi is one of the city’s main shopping streets with a huge range of local and international brands. If you start up here, wind your way down through Firuzağa, Kuloğlu and Karaköy, where there are more independent fashion and homeware stores, and many coffee shops.
Wine & Dine
Karaköy is a trendy waterfront area by the Galata Bridge. Mürver cooks Turkish fare over an open fire, with sea views. On the other side of the bridge, Hamdi Eminönü serves more traditional kebabs and lahmacun – reservations are essential.
Further along the European coast in Bebek, Lucca is a lively spot for food and drinks, no matter what time zone you are on. Further still, Emirgan Sütiş is known for its full Turkish breakfast and treats. For those staying up on the hills, Mikla, at the top of Marmara Pera, will take your breath away as one of the highest points to sip a cocktail, shaken at an open-air bar. Watching the lights of Istanbul turn on at nightfall, you get a new appreciation for this unfurling city, which creates its own rhythms and patterns like a kaleidoscope.
A Royal Hamman
After a long day of exploring, a hammam will make you appreciate the quieter moments the city has to offer. Treatments can vary between Turkish baths, but the best is Hurrem Sultan Hammam. The wife of the sultan commissioned the domed building in the mid-1500s in a classical Ottoman style. It’s on the site of the ancient public Baths of Zeuxippus, which is also where a temple of Zeus once stood – all of which could explain how sacred this space feels.
When booking the classic Pir-ü Pak Turkish Hammam, you are guided to sit in a warm marble alcove and wash with water flowing from a golden bowl. You will need to undress (as much as you feel comfortable) – this Hammam has a female-only side, accessed through a separate entrance. An attendant will then scrub your skin back to its baby-soft self, before you lie down on a central marble stone for a cleansing massage that covers you in the lightest of bubbles and the richest of rosebud body oil. After washing once more, you are served a sherbet (refreshing fruit drinks and snack), while wrapped in a towelling robe.
A hammam may be an intimidating concept for modest New Zealanders, but being cared for by a community of women can be a healing experience, especially when you are so far from home.
Where To Stay In Istanbul
Soho House has its Istanbul outpost in the Beyoğlu district, in an 18th-century palazzo that has also served as a US embassy. There are large faded frescoes and vintage furniture around the storied house, as well as the Apheleia terrace restaurant, which offers sweeping views and shade under its rooftop trees.
Down in Galataport, The Peninsula Istanbul is spread across three beautiful restored buildings and one modern addition with a pool stretching out to the water. Also in the Karaköy quarter, The Bank Hotel offers a more boutique experience, with views over the Bosphorus Bridge. Whatever your outlook in Istanbul, it is sure to open your mind to new possibilities.
BEYOND ISTANBUL
Given its position, Istanbul is often a stopover city for those travelling to seaside resorts, or retreats in the Cappadocian hills. Here are three destination hotels we can’t wait to book next.
Yazz Collective Fethiye
The newly opened Yazz Collective is nestled in a private bay in Fethiye, in the middle of the Turquoise Coast. The resort is architecturally designed to showcase its serene natural surroundings, as well as the work of Turkish artists and artisans.
Argos in Cappadocia
With its skyline of hot-air balloons, a trip to Cappadocia is truly unique. Argos in Cappadocia is set in the hills of a former monastery, with cave rooms, cave pools, tunnels and a beautiful terrace restaurant for enjoying Turkish dishes with a twist.
The Bodrum Edition
Bodrum has long been a meeting place for the stylish set, and its new Edition hotel isn’t helping it keep a low profile either. There’s a large infinity pool, a chic beach club and a jetty lined with private cabanas over the Aegean Sea.
Words: Jessica Belle-Greer
Images: Supplied
