Ain’t no better way to open NZFW than with undoubtedly the most anticipated show on the fashion calendar, Harman Grubiša.
All we knew about the Harman Grubiša show going in was the name – Rococo. So naturally, we were expecting glamour, glitz, gold and all things old-fashion French. Well, we got the glamour, glitz and gold, and the luxury European aesthetic (which made me want to dress up more instead of always schlepping around in denim), but it was designers Jessica and Madeleine’s modern styling that really brought the collection to life. We’re big fans of these girls and their show lived up to the hype. Read on for the inside scoop…
Show vibe: I am woman, hear me roar! There’s nothing quite as powerful as a well tailored suit, or workwear with a feminine, yet boss b*tch edge, and Harman Grubiša nailed it. And Whitney Houston’s I’m Every Woman as the finale song was just the cherry on top of a very delicious cake. Named Rococo presumably in honour of the late 18th century French baroque artistic movement (think opulence, asymmetry and ornate detailing), the glamour was in the air from the moment the crowd walked in. Nothing says luxury quite like a golden runway, now does it?
Fabrics, features and stand-out pieces: The beautiful fabrication and texture combination was one of the most alluring parts of the show. Dazzling in ribbed gold and silver metallic, slinky in muted rose and burgundy silks and sharp in perfect pleating, many of the pieces would sit right at home in a boardroom before making a seamless transition to cocktail hour. The ribbed jersey knit dresses will make for wonderful winter layering pieces, if form-fits aren’t your cup of tea. Plus, if you are in need of a few styling pointers when it comes to layering, this is the show for you.
Styling tips you need to try: As mentioned above, layering! Turtlenecks with V-necks and wrap tops win the styling stakes for the top half of the body, and down below, playing with proportion with alternating hemlines is a wardrobe update we could all incorporate with ease.
New trend alert: Not new new, but certainly coming into its own as THE heel trend of the season (this one and next, clearly), is the mid-height flared heel. Used throughout the show, the slingback suede black heels were paired with every look – from cigarette and wide-leg pants, to above-the-knee dresses and shin-grazing skirts. Basically, you need a pair of these in your wardrobe for all those times when you don’t know what shoes to wear. Because these are it.
Accessory game: Refined, simple and achingly elegant, local jewellery designer Jasmin Sparrow was behind the covetable gold earrings that graced each models’ lobes. After the success of last year’s simple bar earring collaboration for NZFW, the designers went with more statement pieces for Rococo – a round stud and a drop earring. A brooch in two different size options and a clasp for the chic winter coats were definite favourites, too.
Beauty look: We love a deep burgundy lip around here, and the Harman Grubiša lip, expertly crafted by MAC senior artist Kiekie Stanners was #goals. “I think that Rococo just kind of inspires the idea of that really beautiful elegance and ornateness of the Baroque period,” Kiekie explained backstage before the show. “The makeup is kind of following suit, that everything is really delicate and really polished and very fine details on the face.
“The key features with the makeup is really beautiful, perfected creamy skin with a hint of gold reflect, beautiful soft washes of metallic gold over the eyes, and then like a liquid metal liner along the top lash line, so it kind of has that feeling of that sort of Baroque-like flecks of gold running through the face.”
Soundtrack highlights: Every song was a highlight, so here’s the running order: Gypsy Woman by Crystal Waters. Sing It Back by Moloko (hello, clubbing in the early 2000s). One Night in Heaven by M People (it was lucky I was seated in the second row because I may have joined in at the chorus), and the finale banger I’m Every Woman by Whitney Houston. Someone take me back to 2001 because I am ready to P.A.R.T.Y.
Winter wardrobe wishlist: Dear ANZ bank, please may I have a silk wrap top and wine-red cigarette trousers, a black silk georgette gown, a couple of cashmere sweaters with perfectly subtle flare sleeves and just a simple black fur jacket with gold clasp. Thanks so much.
