The rise of the genderless fragrance and why you should embrace them

4 February 2025
By Sarah Murray

We speak to the founder of Abel Frances Shoemack about how you can embrace scent beyond stereotypes.

Frances Shoemack, founder of Abel. Image: Supplied
Frances Shoemack, founder of Abel. Image: Supplied

A shift has taken place in the world of fragrance in recent years that sees it moving beyond traditional gender labels and, instead, celebrating scent as a personal experience. At the forefront of this movement is Abel, a natural perfume brand with an intention to create genderless scent profiles. “It’s always felt ridiculous to me that scents are gendered,” says founder Frances Shoemack. “Nature didn’t create scents with gender in mind. Considering a floral scent for women only is about as meaningless as saying Champagne is a women’s drink.”

Historically, though, this is what we’ve always seen. Go to any department or beauty store and you’ll see scent has been boxed into categories for men and women. And although some are happy with the status quo, others like Shoemack would like to see more fluidity. “Scents are only feminine or masculine by the references and framework put in place by the advertising world experiences. I think as a culture, we’re starting to move beyond these tropes.”

Abel's new Perfume Minis. Image: Supplied
Abel's new Perfume Minis. Image: Supplied

And that’s where Abel steps in, bringing this philosophy to life through their fragrances. Take Pink Iris, for example — a sophisticated blend of iris, rose, jasmine, Sichuan pepper, and natural musk. This scent defies the notion that floral notes are exclusively feminine, proving that elegance and beauty know no gender boundaries. In fact, it’s this fragrance that is one of Frances’ husband Dave’s favourites — proving that a floral fragrance can be just as appealing to men. Similarly, Nurture — originally crafted with new mothers in mind — combines soft florals with ginger, bright citrus, and warm sandalwood. 

Frances believes that taking a more nuanced approach to fragrance can unlock deeper layers of identity and confidence. “I think it’s all about the wearer and I think people who have gone past gendered scents tend to be interacting with their fragrance in a more intimate way. A super masculine guy in dark clothes rocking a soft delicate scent (and I’m thinking of a guy who loves our scent Nurture!) somehow speaks of more confidence and self expression than if he was wearing a classic men’s cologne. Likewise, I once met a chic petite Italian journalist in a red pant suit who declared to me that she loves wearing our most masculine scents because they make her feel so powerful.”

Abel's new Perfume Minis. Image: Supplied
Abel's new Perfume Minis. Image: Supplied

One thing is certain, consumers today are increasingly drawn to fragrances that reflect individuality. This trend goes beyond simply wearing a popular scent — it’s about self-expression and wearing a fragrance that resonates on a personal level. Looking ahead, Frances believes the future of fragrance lies in scent layering and experimentation. People want fragrance wardrobes, not just one signature scent. They’re mixing perfumes to reflect their mood or environment, in the same way they choose clothing or accessories. To meet this growing demand, Abel has introduced Perfume Minis, allowing customers to explore and experiment with different scents as often as they like.

Words by: Sarah Murray
Imagery: Supplied

This article originally appeared in Fashion Quarterly‘s Summer 2024 issue.

Like this? You'll love these:

Share:

Sign up & Join
FQ Insider

Unlock exclusive content, behind-the-scenes insights, and special offers by becoming an FQ Insider.

Fashion Quarterly Winter 2023 Cover
Fashion Quarterly Winter 2023 Cover

Sign up & Join
FQ Insider

Unlock exclusive content, behind-the-scenes insights, and special offers by becoming an FQ Insider.

Don’t miss a thing. Sign up to FQ’s weekly newsletter.

*Ts&Cs apply.
Find out more at fq.co.nz/fq-newsletter