Runway report: All the key trends from the fall/winter 2020 shows

5 March 2020

New (and nostalgic) aesthetic vibes to channel now.

As we anticipate autumn dressing, the northern hemisphere’s fall shows strike at just the right time to feel reinspired. Though fashion is flexible and personal, it’s always enlightening to dissect overarching trends from the new collections; questioning where they came from, what they mean, and how they translate to our current wardrobes.

From prim and proper outfits marching down catwalks, to fashion’s renewed appreciation of all things theatrical and extravagant (and ’80s), to those that are taking things very seriously, the recent runways have presented a vast array of reactionary thinking regarding the state of the world.

Some designers are choosing escapism, while others, like Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga, prefer an outright apocalyptic approach. Either way, there are still threads to pick up from the northern hemisphere collections, and themes that will permeate New Zealand more quickly than ever.

Read more: 84 fashion names you’ve probably been saying wrong

We’ve identified the key trends from the recent Paris, Milan, London and New York shows, presented here for you to peruse, digest and draw from. Brown is big, cute is back, and gloves were everywhere.

Scroll down for these and many more.

From Peter Pan and puritan to the quintessentially Gallic claudine, collars framed the necks of models on a swathe of recent runways.

1/13

Collars

From Peter Pan and puritan to the quintessentially Gallic claudine, collars framed the necks of models on a swathe of recent runways. This classic detail ties in with the cute, prim and nostalgic aesthetics sweeping fashion – and calls back to the early ’00s days of Luella and Marc Jacobs. The trend kicked off at Copenhagen Fashion Week earlier this year, thanks to Ganni, and was also seen at Chanel’s recent convent-uniform inspired couture show.

Seen at: Ganni, Marc Jacobs and Gucci (all pictured), Paul & Joe, MSGM, Helmstedt, Rodarte and Vivetta.

How to wear: Pick up a vintage blouse or, for even more versatility, a detachable collar. Collars look great with knitwear, or layered over dresses. Pair with leather for a contradictory look.

brown outfits at fashion week

2/13

Brown

An unexpected and unavoidable trend this season, shades of brown have been all over the runways and the streets. Surprisingly flattering, at its best the look is structured and streamlined, with a focus on outerwear, suits and tailored dresses.

Seen at: Margaret Howell, Emilia Wickstead and Lemaire (all pictured), Victoria Beckham, Miu Miu, Acne Studios, Balmain, Max Mara and Boss.

How to wear: Head-to-toe brown feels chic and modern, and it was the most popular iteration of this trend on the runway. For those after a gentler approach, brown works well with soft pastels or paired with white for a fresh look. We particularly love pairing brown with lilac or grey (or both!)

knee high boots at celine, lemaire and tory burch

3/13

Knee-high boots

They have long been an enduring wardrobe staple, but knee-high boots are firmly back in favour with the fashion crowd, seen in all the style capitals with many iterations channeling ’70s and ’80s bourgeoise style, or a posh equestrian vibe.

Seen at: Celine, Lemaire and Tory Burch (all pictured), Chloé, Jason Wu, Alberta Ferretti, Halpern, Balmain, Hermès and Dries Van Noten.

How to wear: Classic knee-high boots go with everything, though they feel especially chic with an A-line skirt or calf-length dress for a nostalgic look.

fashion from shrimps, helmstedt and gucci

4/13

Girly

Childlike yet subversive, the ‘new cute’ look features overt references and twisted proportions. It’s a refreshing spin on a kind of femininity that we haven’t seen since the early ’00s and the likes of Lula magazine.

Seen at: Shrimps, Helmstedt, Gucci (all pictured, Marc Jacobs and MGSM.

How to wear: Babydoll dresses and cardigans are key here, as are T-bar sandals and Mary Janes. The bold will wear all together, while those after subtlety should try a singular piece paired with slouchy denim (à la Gucci).

Back in a big way (and feeling exceptionally fresh) checks were on the runway at many northern hemisphere shows.

5/13

Checks

Back in a big way (and feeling exceptionally fresh) checks were on the runway at many northern hemisphere shows. The look is preppy, posh and quite ladylike, rather than outdoorsy or grungy. Plaids and checks were frequently splashed across a whole ensemble, maximising their impact, though tones were restricted to classic, earthy colour palettes.

Seen at: Burberry, Victoria Beckham and Dior (all pictured), Alberta Ferretti, Miu Miu, Saint Laurent, Chloé, Michael Kors, A.W.A.K.E Mode, Celine, Shrimps, Brock Collection, Roland Mouret.

How to wear: Channel the catwalk with a head-to-toe look.

red fashion

6/13

Red

Now is the time for living in colour. In every fashion capital, red was embraced head-to-toe, from lustrous crimson suits to big bold dresses and everything in between.

Seen at: Bottega Veneta, Christopher John Rogers and Marc Jacobs (all pictured), Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Jil Sander, Altuzarra, Michael Kors, Ann Demeulemeester and Preen by Thornton Bregazzi.

How to wear: It’s never been easier to embrace this bold colour, whether you channel it through your accessories alone, or go for full exposure.

sweater vests

7/13

Sweater vests

A FQ favourite, sweater vests are practical and, due to being out of favour for decades, a refreshingly unexpected knitwear choice. Until now that is, with their recent appearance in many, many collections for fall/winter 2020. They were big at Copenhagen Fashion Week and the menswear shows in Milan, and have popped up on the women’s runways this past month, tying in with fashion’s prim and preppy mood.

Seen at: Chloé, Cecilie Bahnsen and Marc Jacobs (all pictured), Prada, Ganni, Dior and Stine Goya.

How to wear: Lean into the look with a collared shirt or turtleneck. Don’t stress though; the beauty of a sweater vest is that it pretty much goes with everything from jeans to a frou-frou dress.

Entwined in the resurgence of ladylike style, models have been wrapped in cardigans this season.

8/13

Cardigans

Entwined in the resurgence of ladylike style, models have been wrapped in cardigans this season. Last exceptionally popular a decade ago thanks to the likes of Alexa Chung, the knitwear staple is back in favour for autumn and was seen on recent runways in every possible iteration: cropped, oversized, rustic, and refined.

Seen at: Prada, Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu (all pictured), Chloé, N21, Gucci, Erdem, Altuzarra, MSGM, Coach, Emilia Wickstead and Fendi.

How to wear: Pair a streamlined little cardigan with a tailored skirt or slouchy trousers. For those who love colour, layer a pastel cardigan over a floral dress à la Erdem.

As designers seem preoccupied with ladies of leisure this season, they’ve stepped into an enchanted garden of floral prints.

9/13

Florals

As designers seem preoccupied with ladies of leisure this season, they’ve stepped into an enchanted garden of floral prints. Universally charming, the motif has been propagating at plenty of shows, entangled in every look from feminine and flouncy dresses to figure-forming suits.

Seen at: Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten and Richard Quinn (all pictured), Tory Burch, Erdem, Carolina Herrera, Rodarte, Altuzarra, Jil Sander and Oscar de la Renta.

How to wear: Cultivate your own attire with dark contrast fabrics or mixed-together prints – it’s sweet yet slightly subversive.

gloves

10/13

Gloves

Every season has a statement ‘it’ accessory and this autumn 2020 it’s the glove. No longer reserved to the periphery of the mundane or the marvelous – housework or debutante balls, respectively – gloves have been stealing the show on red carpets and the runway alike, adding a bygone brilliance that is at once nostalgic and novel.

Seen at: Ulla Johnson, Shrimps and Miu Miu (all pictured), The Row, Erdem, Marc Jacobs, David Koma, Rodarte, Richard Quinn. (Everywhere).

How to wear: Opera gloves, like the ivory over the elbow pairs at Marc Jacobs, are best worn with sleek occasionwear silhouettes, while gloves scrunched to sit on the forearm, such as at Erdem and Shrimps, are best kept playful in vibrant colours and textures that offset an outfit.

fluffy shoes

11/13

Fluffy shoes

One of the more unexpected trends, though not without precedence (the Céline 2013 collection from Phoebe Philo started it all). Fluffy shoes are a cheerful, decadent and delightfully impractical – something we need when everything is so serious.

Seen at: Yuhan Wang, Miu Miu and Altuzarra.

How to wear: Inside.

auntie core fasihon

12/13

Aunty-core

Funky vibes and being yourself has never been cooler – it’s a look we’re leaning into for autumn.

Seen at: Tod’s, Miu Miu and Chloé (all pictured) as well as Dries Van Noten, Marni, Gucci and Maison Margiela.

How to wear: Be yourself, wear what you love, keep it for ages.

13/13

Volume

Akin to calls for women to ‘take up space’, valuing themselves more and demanding to be seen, designers are fashioning silhouettes of inflated importance and shape. The best cases were the giant, decadent dresses.

Seen at: Christopher John Rogers, Louis Vuitton and Molly Goddard (all pictured), Richard Quinn, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Carolina Herrera, Emilia Wickstead, Brandon Maxwell and Fendi.

How to wear it: Though we all love the idea of swanning around in a big old dress, for real-world dressing, the trick to pulling off volume is balance – if you have an over-sized coat, juxtapose with slimming skirts and pants on the bottom, or if you’re going for a ball-gown opt for sleek accessories that can stand up to your dress but not compete with it. If you’ve spent most of your shopping days looking for slenderising silhouettes, why not focus on the popular puffed-up sleeve instead? They’re a fabulous Dynasty-style distraction that will make your waist seem smaller by comparison.

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