Meet our Friday Muse: Jewellery designer Charlotte Penman

12 June 2025
By Fashion Quarterly

We spoke with the Auckland jewellery designer about how her Fine Arts background, creative lineage, and deep connection to nature shape her timeless, symbolic pieces.

Jewellery designer Charlotte Penman.

Charlotte Penman’s journey into fine jewellery was a natural evolution – rooted in a fine arts background, a creative family legacy, and a deep love for storytelling through objects. Raised between Auckland and Hong Kong, her work reflects a lifelong connection to art, nature, and symbolism. For over 25 years, she’s crafted pieces that transcend trends—personal, enduring and rich with meaning. For this week’s Friday Muse, we spoke with Penman about the evolution of her practice, the inspirations behind her latest collections, and how she weaves symbolism and soul into every piece.

In conversation with Charlotte Penman

Let’s get up to speed. Tell us a bit about you, your background and your career to date.

My background is in Fine Arts, which naturally evolved into jewellery design and making. I was raised between Auckland and Hong Kong, surrounded by creative influences, and art was simply a way of life. My father ran a jewellery line in the 1980s, and my grandfather was an architect in Hong Kong, originally a founding member of The Group Architects in Auckland. Creativity and design run deep in our veins. It was always encouraged by my mum and family as the most natural path, and it’s been an honour to carry that legacy forward.

I began making jewellery while travelling, missing the tactile nature of painting and sculpture, so I went mini as a way of fulfilling a creative need. On returning to Aotearoa, it’s been a constant while I studied fine arts, became a mother, established a home and a studio; it’s been my practice throughout the seasons of life over the past 25 years. The foundations are in travel, storytelling, legacy, and craftsmanship, and my work is a natural expression of my lineage and love of art, design, nature, gemstones, and human connection. An ode to life, really.

What was the pivotal moment that made you decide to follow your passion for creating fine jewellery?

For me, it was less of a single moment and more of a natural evolution. Jewellery has always felt like more than just an inanimate object; it’s personal, protective, and deeply empowering. I studied weaving and carving as a teenager and studied drawing, painting, photography and sculpture since I was a child. Soon after my return home, Tessuti took on our collections and then Workshop, and later the Auckland Art Gallery. Over time, clients and friends began asking me to create engagement rings and redesign heirloom pieces, often to honour a loss, milestone, or celebrate love. As I shared the work, it started to take on a life of its own.

From here, the fine collections were born, and from these intimate commissions we formed more permanent collections. It’s been the most unexpected and fulfilling journey. I continue to be thrilled by it, and learn so much from the process: from sourcing rare gems and working with local artisans, to the sacred experience of collaborating with clients. It really is an honour to create pieces that witness people’s lives through celebration, grief, loss, new beginnings, and most favourably, declarations of love! 

Could you tell us a little about what inspired your latest collection?

We’re currently collaborating with Auckland Museum on a special selection of our favourite CP pieces for Diva, an exhibition on loan from the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, launching next month. It’s an honour to be part of this international celebration of creative expression and iconic design, and our new Leola Earrings will be launched during this time.

We’re also developing a new collection for Auckland Art Gallery, created in collaboration with renowned carver Alex Sands. This body of work will mark the unveiling of the gallery’s new building in September. Deeply rooted in meaning and place, this collection has been a soulful journey that started over a year ago, and we’re so looking forward to sharing this collection with the world.

How do you balance staying in tune with fashion’s current mood while designing pieces that endure beyond trend cycles?

My design philosophy is definitely rooted in timelessness. While I remain aware of fashion’s rhythm, my focus has always been on creating pieces that transcend trends, meaningful, enduring forms that feel both contemporary and eternal.

Each design is crafted to enhance the wearer’s natural beauty, never to overshadow it. With an emphasis on symbolism, subtlety, and refinement, our pieces are intended to empower, and our fine bespoke collection we hope will become future heirlooms, objects of meaning and memory that hold their relevance and can be passed down to generations to come.

Do you have a go-to ritual or activity that helps you recharge and stay centred? 

I grew up by the ocean, and it remains my sanctuary. I begin as many days as humanly possible on the beach with my husky, Miska. I love to catch the sunrise and start my day, barefoot in the sand and water, soaked in beauty. This routine always sets my equilibrium and tone for creating and handling whatever the day brings.

I love my kids, family and friends, music, art galleries and museums, dance parties and festivals, infrared saunas, farmers markets, travel, cooking and preparing food for my children and loved ones, native forests, storytelling and architecture. All these things help me reconnect with my creative core. 

How would you describe your personal style, and what influences it the most?

I love natural textures, sculptural silhouettes, and pieces that feel timeless yet a little unexpected. I have been building a wardrobe for many years. It’s a mixture of vintage pieces and local and international designers. I recently inherited some of my grandmother’s power pieces, a stunning tuxedo jacket by Guy Laroche and a wool tartan dress. 

Locally, I respect  Zambesi, whose tailoring and style I have always admired. Over the years, I have gravitated towards timeless pieces from Georgia Jay, Mina, Towa, Workshop and Daylight Moon, whose pieces carry an aesthetic I resonate with. I love pieces that feel considered, playful, structured, flowing, elegant, fun and enduring. My guilty pleasure has always been sunglasses; some girls like shoes, for me, it’s sunglasses. I started collecting interesting frames when I was about 20. Obsessed.

Looking ahead, are there new themes or inspirations you’re eager to explore in your upcoming collections?

I’m excited to continue exploring the intersection of heritage and innovation, always with a focus on narrative-driven design. I’m particularly drawn to the emotional resonance of ceremonial pieces, their power to hold meaning, mark transformative moments, and connect us to something larger than ourselves.

There’s a certain magic in working with precious gems and solid gold, materials that are not only beautiful and enduring, but inherently circular. They can be melted down, repurposed, and reimagined into something entirely new when outgrown, carrying their history forward in a new form.

Future collections will become even more intimate and symbolic, rooted in tradition while embracing a refined synthesis of handcraft and modern technology. It’s about honouring the past while creating pieces that feel deeply personal, contemporary, and timeless.

Quick-fire questions

My favourite place to dine… Candella, Guilt, Takapuna Beach Cafe or beach picnics with my kids and friends!

My next holiday destination… Raglan.

My guilty pleasure TV show or movie is…Anything Jane Austen at the moment. Pride and Prejudice, Persuasion and period pieces, Little Women and so on. 

Three beauty products I can’t live without… Castor oil, tallow balm and rose essential oil.

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