How the fashion world is reacting to Trump’s new order

5 February 2017
By Fashion Quarterly

Trump news online

As a number of big names speak out against Trump’s immigration order – including Angelina Jolie, who has just penned an essay for the New York Times – will fashion brands make their opinions known?

As we all know, last week Trump signed an immigration order that halted America’s refugee programme and stopped visitors from several Muslim-majority countries from entering the country. While protesters headed to the streets, and airports, to rally against the move, New York City brand Opening Ceremony launched its Active collection through a provocative ballet called The Times Are Racing. Its shirts with “Protest” and “Unite” scribbled across them seemed apt in such a politically charged climate.

The brand is known for unconventional and politically minded shows. After their ‘Pageant of the People’ runway show last year, co-founder Humberto Leon told The New York Times: “I think it’s a shame not to use this platform that we have to talk about something that’s on our minds.”

https://www.instagram.com/p/BM-M6wHArCg/?taken-by=openingceremony&hl=en

Fashion brands, like any organisation, are made from a large mix of nationalities – so can we expect more protest art in the form of fashion during Trump’s term? Imran Amed, the editor of The Business of Fashion has revealed that the industry magazine emailed executives at LVMH, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta for comment but failed to receive a reply, other than “short, polite replies declining to comment”. He noted this was in stark contrast to celebrities and Silicon Valley executives, from the likes of Apple, Facebook and Google, who all publicly took a stand.

However, Diane von Furstenberg, the daughter of a holocaust survivor who immigrated to America after marrying Prince Alexandre von Furstenberg, did reply. She wrote: “The fashion industry has always been a reflection of what America is all about… inclusion and diversity… It will continue to stand by these standards. I am personally horrified to see what is going on.”

The designer also posted an image on Instagram of the Statue of Liberty, saying “Lady Liberty… we love you”.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BP2UyWGFhUL/?taken-by=therealdvf&hl=en

In a similar move, the chairman of the British Fashion Council, Natalie Massenet, shared lines from Emma Lazarus’ sonnet about the Statue of Liberty on her own Instagram. The post read: “Give me your tired, your poor, Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free, The wretched refuse of your teeming shore.Send these, the homeless, tempest-tossed to me, I lift my lamp beside the golden door!” #refugeeswelcome.”

https://www.instagram.com/p/BP7gCZjjZ8U/

Social media has been a popular forum for brands who wish to break their silence. Tory Burch also shared an Instagram that made their stance clear: “Respect, civility, acceptance and inclusion are at the core of who we are and should be a given. Embracing all people of all nationalities is beautiful.” They ended the post with “#loveisuniversal”.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BP7w81CAxB3/?taken-by=toryburch

Kering Group, a collection of luxury fashion houses including Gucci and Saint Laurent, issued a statement from its CEO François Henri Pinault on Twitter. It read: “At a time when diversity is at stake, I want to reaffirm how crucial this value is to me and to Kering. Diversity of origin, opinion and belief is part of our identity and our success.”

In a bold move, some industry professionals have physically protested the moment, including Phillip Lim and fashion models Gigi and Bella Hadid, who have in turn shared their involvement on Instagram.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BP4DmdjgzZv/?taken-by=bellahadid

In a more quiet move, Ivanka Trump’s clothes and accessories line has just disappeared from Nordstrom’s website, which suggests the large retailer has decided to no longer stock the President’s daughter’s brand, after months of consumers boycotting the brand with the hashtag #GrabYourWallet. Neiman Marcus has also removed the line (it is no longer listed on the stocked designers page) and there is increasing pressure on Macy’s to do the same.

The New Zealand fashion industry has not rushed to get involved with the immigration issue. We have not had a reply from the brands we have emailed for a comment, other than one brand that did wish to comment, but decided it was unwise as the owner may be visiting America soon.

Words: Jessica-Belle Greer, Simply You
Photo: @openingceremony

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