Untouched World
At Untouched World’s presentation under creative collaborators Moira and Lucinda, the atmosphere was one of quiet grounding. The show unfolded with a sense of reverence for nature – garments moving through the space in earthy tones of khaki, soft blue, and clean neutrals. Wide-brimmed hats and sleek ponytails gave the collection an equestrian edge, while small details, like florals tucked into belts, reminded us that the natural world was always close at hand.
The collection balanced innovation and tradition, with airy linen and merino speaking to the brand’s roots, and Brewed ProteinTM – a cutting-edge textile with the luxurious hand of silk or cashmere – marking a bold step forward. The pieces themselves were unforced and wearable, but their staging elevated them into something more contemplative. Surrounded by the raw plants from which the fibres originate, guests were asked to consider the true beginning of cloth: the soil.
Kate Bush’s ethereal voice and the sound of birdsong accompanied the show, weaving in a sense of otherworldliness. The show moved beyond spectacle into reflection, asking what fashion might become when guided by ecology rather than excess. Untouched World offered not just garments, but a vision for a gentler future.
The Future of Fashion
The Future of Fashion showcase was as much about business vision as design bravado. Selected from 18 entries by a panel of industry leaders, the eight finalists unveiled collections that not only pushed aesthetic boundaries but also sharpened their brand identities.
Bronwyn opened with a chic lineup of contemporary footwear—vibrant heels adorned with floral details and knee-high boots in butter yellow. Depth of Scye leaned into Victorian codes, layering tartan, lace and ruffles with punkish red accents that lent the looks a rebellious edge. Riel followed with deconstructed tailoring—jackets worn backwards, shirting morphed into dresses, and a surreal “bridal” gown pieced from buttoned shirts. Cruel to Be Kind blurred fantasy and punk theatre with chain body jewellery, fairy prints and exaggerated Wonderland proportions. Daf Nimkovsky’s slinky loungewear-inspired dresses brought sensuality to the runway, while Zheyi Ruan opened with a bridal slip and 1920s-esque veil before transitioning into crinkled tulle gowns and moodier pieces with intricately braided details. Ohn delivered brat-ballroom drama in hot pink minis and buckled straps, while Gemma Lee Wetsuits closed with coastal vitality—floral wetsuits, matching surfboards and bold green checks.
Supported by DHL, the showcase culminated in the DHL Fashion Scholarship, awarding $10,000 in international shipping credit and mentorship in sustainability, business and operations. Bronwyn was named the winner, recognised for her design clarity and brand potential, while Gemma Lee claimed the runner-up spot with her sun-drenched, surf-inspired vision.
Karen Walker
Shed 10 felt electrified before the first look even hit the runway. Neon-lit buttercups glowed at the edges, smoke curled low across the floor, and a restless crowd leaned in, caught between expectation and delight. Fifteen years after her last show, Karen Walker didn’t just return—she took the stage back in technicolour.
Belle and Sebastian’s The Stars of Track and Field played in full, an inkling at what was to come. Then, the Runaway Girl logo flashed, and first out came model Lola Bebe. She hopped onto a treadmill and stayed there—walking, running, stepping off halfway through to take on the obstacle course. A kinetic embodiment of Walker’s playful spirit, her motion was the show’s heartbeat.
The styling was as layered as the set: satin track tops peeking from beneath shearling-trimmed bombers and wide-leg denim; puffed parkas with fur collars turned sideline staples into statements; knee-high socks and oversized shades gave nostalgic kitsch a grown-up swagger. Hair, by Sara Allsop for Shark Beauty, was gloriously undone—textured, free, intentionally imperfect.
On the way back, models launched into the course with mischievous precision. Finnish hobby horse champ Ada Filppa pulled the crowd with her stunts, mirrored by Olive Mackenzie—an unexpected crescendo before the real race began: adidas athletes charged through, sealing the collection’s sport-core pulse with sheer human force.
Chaotic, witty, unforgettable—Life With Obstacles reminded everyone that for Walker, the runway isn’t just about clothes. It’s about turning resistance into theatre, and style into motion.
Zambesi
There are things you can always count on with a Zambesi show: it will always be cool, and there will always be black. Their show at NZFW did not disappoint on either count.
It opened with Boys at School by Spelling, setting the tone for playful nods to schoolboy charm – roman sandals with socks, undone ties, even what looked like a curtain cord repurposed as a belt. Some models padded out barefoot, while a smoke machine cloaked the runway, making each entrance feel spectral, as if the models were emerging like apparitions.
There was black. Of course there was. But there were also unexpected jolts of colour – a sharp yellow belt punctuating suiting, a black-based botanical print with green, and flashes of silk shirting. A snake-print dress slinked down the runway, while lace-trimmed slips slid off shoulders in an undone, lived-in way. Glitzy socks winked beneath hemlines. And the hair, styled in a relaxed wet look, gave the impression of models fresh from the sea, their strands textured and salty.
Every detail of the collection felt deliberate yet unforced – less about spectacle, more about intimacy. Zambesi has never shouted for attention; instead, it draws you in, leaving an impression that lingers long after the last model disappears in the smoke.
