Juliette Hogan
Former FQ cover star Sophie Song opened the show in a look that felt like pure Juliette Hogan: painterly prints rippling like brushstrokes in motion, floaty florals, all set against a billowing curtain backdrop. From there, the collection delivered the hallmarks we’ve come to expect from the New Zealand fashion heavyweight – delicate florals, blush tones, and, of course, her iconic pleating – alongside sharp tailoring that shifted the mood and revealed a striking juxtaposition: romance versus precision, whimsy versus polish.
Still, there was a sense of fresh energy. A dress that caught the light like liquid mercury appeared in both a sleek shift and a floor-length gown with a plunging neckline – gliding as if it might melt into the runway. Wide-leg trousers arrived as part of a matching set with a bikini top and oversized shirt – not only in classic khaki, but in bold brights and punchy florals – a look we’ll be hoping to add to cart this spring/summer.
Beauty followed Hogan’s understated philosophy. Models swept past, hair undone in low ponytails with exaggerated side parts, while makeup was kept luminous and minimal.
Stylist Rachel Morton summed it up as “clean, very Juliette Hogan – but with newness.” Fellow stylist Courtney Jo agreed: “Movement and silhouette at the heart. I loved the simplicity.”
And that simplicity was its strength. Hogan wasn’t chasing theatrics or reinvention – she was true to her aesthetic, punctuated with subtle surprises. The most dramatic moment came at the finale, when the curtain was pulled back to reveal glasses of freshly poured champagne still fizzing beside an oversized floral installation by Isadia. The gesture was an elegant move, encouraging guests to linger, sip, and connect with their fashion community.
Taylor
At Taylor’s Shadowplay installation, a darkened room set the tone before pools of light revealed the newest collection. Models were spaced throughout the venue like living installations, their slow, fluid movements encouraging guests to pause and take in each scene.
The collection explored the interplay of light and shadow through delicate fabrics and softened silhouettes. Sheer layers floated, catching the light as they shifted, while clean tailoring grounded the mood in Taylor’s signature strength.
Unlike a traditional runway, Shadowplay was designed as an experience. Guests could move through the space at their own pace, encountering the collection in fragments that slowly pieced together into a whole. This sense of immersion mirrored designer Vicki Taylor’s process – where inspiration is stumbled upon, and ideas surface gradually before taking form in fabric.
Hair and beauty were equally striking. Some models wore bold accessories, while others had sculptural plaits that jutted upwards, creating a playful, graphic effect. The looks balanced the softness of the clothes with an inventive edge, perfectly complementing the collection’s mix of fluidity and structure.
Now in her 26th year, Taylor has refined a language that is unmistakably her own. Shadowplay highlighted her talent for turning unexpected inspiration into garments that are confident, refined, and effortless.
Harris Tapper
Harris Tapper’s long-awaited New Zealand Fashion Week debut unfolded not in a cavernous show space but in the hushed intimacy of Blue, the Ponsonby Road venue known for its shadowed interiors and restrained design. The setting was deliberate: an ode to the couture salons of mid-20th-century Paris, where Balenciaga and Dior once staged shows for audiences close enough to read every seam.
As a thoughtful gesture from designers Lauren Tapper and Sarah Harris Gould, each guest was greeted with a hand-selected Penguin classic, inscribed bookmark tucked inside and sipped Tanqueray Gibsons, a mid-century nod that sharpened the mood.
Here, models moved slowly through the darkened room as a haunting soundtrack unfolded — from Leonard Cohen’s gravelled poetics to Thom Yorke’s fractured melodies and the spectral whispers of Pink Floyd. The atmosphere was immersive, layered with light, scent and sound, every detail a frame for Harris Tapper’s identity.
Details were tactile and precise: handcrafted feathered shoes, custom Jasmin Sparrow onyx-bead necklaces, and one-off designs that distilled the brand’s codes. Standouts included the hand-beaded Tilmens Blazer, constructed by four artisans in India and weighing nearly 4kg, and the sculptural Onassis Bag, a beaded ode to Jackie Kennedy. Corsages of glass beads and feathered raffia completed the ensembles with subtle eccentricity. Hair by Lauren Gun of Colleen embraced a frizzed, undone texture inspired by 1930s boudoirs, while Kiekie Stanners’ makeup paired powdered couture skin with oil-slicked eyes — a balance of polish and subversion.
The night crystallised Harris Tapper’s ethos: restraint, clarity, and intimacy, elevated into an unforgettable debut.
