Your definitive dress code guide: Our dos and don’ts for black tie

11 July 2024
By Fashion Quarterly

Mid-winter soiree in your sights? Whether the invitation reads black tie wedding, gala, or birthday bash, consider this your definitive guide to navigating black tie.

Elie Saab FW24. Image: spotlight.launchmetrics.com

Cocktail, formal, smart-casual, semi-formal — making sense of dress codes is never a particularly easy feat. Given that they don’t come around often, receiving an invitation to a black tie event can feel particularly daunting to navigate. The last thing you want to do is commit a fashion faux pas!

With half the FQ team heading down to Queenstown this weekend for the inaugural Ayrburn ball, we thought it would be a fitting time to brush up on our black tie knowledge, and share some of the key dos and don’ts for attending such an event.

Decoding black tie

Having been part of the sartorial status quo since the 19th century, ‘black tie’ refers to a formal dress code that is generally only imposed for events after 6pm. 

For men (in a nutshell)

For men, a typical black-tie ensemble might consist of a white dress shirt with a wing collar for a bow tie, a suit jacket (a.k.a dinner jacket) with satin lapels, buttons, and pockets, and formal black trousers to match. Patent black shoes are recommended, and while a black bow tie is most traditional, other colours are also acceptable (except white, that’s for another dress code entirely).  

For women (tldr)

For women, a floor-length evening gown has historically been a prerequisite, however midi-length dresses are often considered to be fine for most modern black tie events. But if in doubt, always run a dress past your host before committing.

Continue reading below for our dos and don’ts:

Murad FW24. Image: spotlight.launchmetrics.com
Erdem FW24. Image: spotlight.launchmetrics.com

Dos and don’ts to the black tie dress code for women

Do embrace the full-length silhouette. Even if your host is more relaxed, it’s always wise to err on the side of caution and don your longest, most elegant dress for the occasion.

Don’t forget to accessorise! A simple string of pearls or a pair of statement earrings can take your ensemble from good to great, so consider popping into locals like Meadowlark, Jasmin Sparrow, Nina Gordon, Zoe & Morgan or Naveya & Sloane to get your fix.  

Do take note of the event details. Will it be a sit-down dinner or a standing cocktail party? You need to be able to move freely and comfortably so bear this in mind when selecting your outfit. 

Don’t be afraid to wear something different. If dresses aren’t your vibe, then a full-length jumpsuit or formal pantsuit are generally acceptable too. Just check with your host if you’re unsure.

Do check the temperature! If your event is taking place in winter, you’ll need a coat or faux fur to avoid catching a chill. Most black tie events will have a coat check, so you won’t need to lug it round all night long, but arriving or departing cold with skin baring the elements is never chic.

Don’t stick to black. As partial as we are to an LBD, black-tie doesn’t mean you’re obligated to wear black. So feel free to experiment with your favourite hues, provided they fit the rest of the brief, that is.

Do wear your best heels. Even if your outfit covers them, the added height will make you want to stand tall and ensure that your outfit looks proportional. Plus, they’re likely to peek through once you hit the dance floor!

Don’t wear anything too revealing. There’s a time and a place, but a black-tie event isn’t the occasion. However, a bit of tasteful skin on show is absolutely fine.

Do consider the fabrications of your gown. While satin, silk, sateen, and lace are acceptable, never wear linen, cotton, or chiffon lifted from a resort collection. These are much too casual. 

Don’t wear white if it’s a black tie wedding. This one goes without saying. 

Shop these editor-approved black-tie looks:

Meadowlark 'Bon Bon' necklace, $1449.
Yu Mei 'Rebecca' bag, $759.
Camilla & Marc 'Glacier' dress, $1020.
Harris Tapper 'Matilda' dress, $459.
Nina Gordon 'Dylan' dome earring, $407.
Naveya & Sloane classic diamond tennis bracelet, $6495,
Paris Georgia 'Audrey' dress, $990.
Camilla & Marc 'Celia' croc pump, $780.

Please note that some of the links in this article are affiliate links, which means that Fashion Quarterly may earn a commission if you make a purchase through those links. This is at no extra cost to you and helps fund future editorial content. 

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