In the latest fragrance revelation, Hermès has unveiled their H24 Herbes Vives, a scent transcending traditional gender norms with its captivating essence fit for both men and women. Intrigued, FQ spoke with Christine Nagel, the director of creation and olfactory heritage for Hermès Parfums, to uncover the inspiration and meticulous craftsmanship woven into this scent. From her bold vision to the innovative use of ‘herbettes,’ Nagel shares the essence of H24 Herbes Vives and tells us what sets it apart in the realm of modern fragrance.
In conversation with Christine Nagel, Hermès Parfums
It’s been said you pursued your vegetal vision when creating H24 Herbes Vives fragrance… could you explain a bit about that?
What could be more stimulating for me than to bring you the scent of H24 with a different vibration, from another angle, another facet? I am free to make my own choices and follow my own creative rhythm, and I wanted to work this modern, clean note into a softer, more raw and damp green. As if it were zooming in the green notes, H24 Herbes Vives offers a new balance in the resonance of the ingredients, offering immediate intensity, power and freshness.
What was your inspiration for the fragrance H24 Herbes Vives?
When I started working on H24 again, the idea came to me instantly. The scents of nature after the rain was the key that unlocked it. The transformations that take place have always fascinated and surprised me. How can rain, which has no smell, generate such an intoxicating scent?
How would you describe your creation?
It is an invigorating fragrance in which power and freshness converge and interact. A hit of green that motivates movement, momentum and vigorous friction.
What are the key notes we should expect?
With my many walks through vegetable gardens in mind, I wanted to highlight these little herbs that look like nothing at all but are bursting with scent. I call them ‘herbettes’, because they seem so humble and unassuming, these plants in medieval ‘jardin des simples’ herb gardens with their aromatic and condiment qualities. Savory, sorrel, parsley and hemp are all so richly scented after the rain. They exude a note of extreme freshness, with the surprising impression that they have already been cut.
Could you explain why the molecule Physcool® is called a sensory molecule?
In my pursuit of a fresher, more intense result, I worked with a pear granita that adds a supple, almost juicy quality, as well as Physcool®, a rare and captive substance. This minty molecule, derived by biotechnology by Mane, delivers a burst of freshness and astonishing liveliness when it comes into contact with water.
H24 is already an iconic scent by Hermès, how did you navigate the heritage of the scent while giving it a refreshing new take?
Working on an existing fragrance is intimidating but also extremely stimulating. I immerse myself in creation without fear, which allows me to go quite far. And to be clear, each one is a creation in its own right. While respecting the spirit, structure and imagery behind the original, I put my own stamp on it. As in painting, there are 1001 ways of representing the same portrait. Without disrupting the codes of the original – its balance, its beautiful materials, its classic structure – you can truly create a new version. I allow a creation to move into a new space, time and era.
Although this is a male scent, do you think women could wear it?
Of course, and I very much hope they will. The fragrance exists in itself, not in relation to its destination. It is not the fragrance that dictates the gender, because a fragrance becomes masculine on a man’s skin and feminine on a woman’s skin. We just have to dare to be bold, trust our instincts and try things out.
How long did it take you to create from the idea, until now when it’s available for consumers?
It took a good year to create H24 Herbes Vives, because I always give myself the time I need to develop and reflect on the subject, to look at every aspect in depth and hone its harmony and elegance to perfection.
Shop online at hermes.com or from Smith & Caughey’s.
