At NZFW, hair is as much a statement as the clothes themselves – and no one understands this better than Sara Allsop. As Shark Beauty hair director she shaped the looks for two of the week’s most iconic names, Karen Walker and Zambesi. We caught up with her to talk about the art of collaboration, the inspiration behind each look, and what it really takes to bring calm to the beautiful chaos of backstage.
In conversation with Sara Allsop
Both Zambesi and Karen Walker are such iconic New Zealand brands – how did you approach creating distinct hair looks that reflect each designer’s vision?
It always begins with the designers themselves. I love sitting down with them, hearing the story behind the collection, and really understanding the mood they want to bring to life on the runway. Once I see the clothes and understand the vision, I start thinking about how the hair can complete the overall look. Often the designers will already have a direction in mind, and that’s where as the hair director, I can provide advice on how to best achieve that look, or suggest subtle tweaks to the hair that complements each of the models, the garments and the overall feeling of the show. It’s a really collaborative process and my goal is to always create a look that feels authentic to the designer.
What was the initial brief or inspiration you received from Zambesi, and how did you interpret it into hair?
The brief from Zambesi was fresh and effortless, they wanted the models to look as if they’d just stepped out of the sea and hadn’t touched their hair. It’s that undone, natural texture that still feels cool. We focused on enhancing the model’s natural hair pattern using the Shark FlexStyle Curl-Defining Diffuser with sea salt spray, to give us that just-out-of-the-water texture.
And for Karen Walker – how does her aesthetic translate into the hair direction for this season’s show?
For Karen Walker, the show is all about dressing for life and its obstacles, so we leaned into hair that feels lived-in and confident. The styles celebrate natural texture, movement, and individuality – hair that looks effortless but intentional. It’s fun!
Do you see common threads between the two designers, or are they completely different worlds when it comes to hair styling?
They are completely different worlds, which is what makes working with them so exciting. Every designer has their own process and their own creative language, and as a hair director, my role is to listen to that and translate it into a hair look. Both designers have such a strong brand identity and aesthetic, and that contrast is what makes New Zealand fashion so dynamic.
Walk us through the process of collaborating with designers – how much is moodboard-driven versus trial and error backstage?
With designers like Zambesi and Karen Walker, the process is very moodboard-driven and there is a clear sense of the world they are creating. It’s my job to interpret the moodboard and offer advice on how to bring the hair to life on the runway with different hair types and textures and through the pace of a live show. There is always some fine-tuning backstage but using the Shark FlexStyle Air Styling & Drying System means we can quickly adapt and deliver polished, effortless hair looks in record time.
What products or techniques are your go-tos for creating hair that can withstand the intensity of fashion week (heat, lights, quick changes)?
I will always create a hair look that can withstand quick outfit changes, because those moments backstage can collapse a look really fast. I use styling products very minimally – there’s nothing worse than hair that looks overworked or weighed down. And I use versatile styling tools, like the Shark FlexStyle, that let you adapt quickly. It has eight different attachments available that cover every hair type and texture so it lets me create a range of looks without overloading my kit.
Do you find yourself designing the looks with the clothes in mind, or is hair more about complementing the overall mood?
Definitely the overall mood. Fashion shows are about storytelling, and the hair plays a big role in helping to create the feeling or mood the designer wants the audience to experience.
Backstage at fashion week can be chaotic – what’s your secret to keeping your team and the models calm and ready?
Organisation and communication! I make sure I’m across everything with designers, producers, and my team well before the show starts. I’m also fortunate to have a team I’ve worked with for years and I trust them completely, which keeps the energy calm and focused. Having the right tools is just as important. The Shark FlexStyle is a powerful all-in-one hair dryer and styling tool which always delivers when we are under pressure backstage.
For people watching the shows, what’s one detail about the hair looks you hope they notice?
This year, it’s all about texture and shape. Those are the details that bring a hairstyle to life and make it feel considered on the runway. Texture gives the hair personality, and shape creates that strong silhouette you see from the audience.
And finally, what’s one easy takeaway or trick from the runway that everyday people could incorporate into their own hair routine?
Less is more when it comes to product. On the runway (and everyday), we want hair to move and look really natural, so overloading it with styling products can weigh it down or make it look too stiff. Keep it simple and focus on a few good styling products.
