Ever wondered what goes on in the glamorous world of fashion during AFW? In this diary series, experience Australian Fashion Week through the lens of our FQ editors.
Day one: Monday 13 May 2024
Albus Lumen:
The recognisable sound of Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake rang out around the concrete runways as the models readied behind the scenes. With hessian hung over scaffolding there was an industrial vibe that also felt end-of-the-worldly. But once those models were walking (and by walking we mean at pace!) we saw lots of drop waist hems and sheer fabrics juxtaposed against more structured suiting. The palette was predominantly made up of earthen tones – browns, beige, blues and greens. And our favourite? The pearl applique on silk.
DHL’s Next Gen:
The next gen show is often a favourite of the FQ team, and this year it didn’t disappoint. Made up of four designers – Emily Watson, Amy Lawrance, Abby Porter of House of Campbell and Potirakis – each designer gave an exciting glimpse into the future of Australian fashion. We particularly loved the raw gold/beige undyed silks from Amy Lawrance with their sculptural elements complete with pleats a plenty.
Rory Docherty:
Of all the shows, we’ve been looking forward to Rory Docherty’s the most. Not only is he a friend of FQ and fellow Kiwi, but his designs mix practicality with a uniqueness you can’t quite put your finger on. We certainly expected to see his exquisite and precise tailoring but were surprised to see bursts of metallic throughout the collection. From metallic detailing and finishing on denim to entire metallic structural creations, Docherty ensured we were filled with anticipation for his latest collection, and of course, sufficiently satisfied.
Carla Zampatti:
Evening shows always hold a certain reverence among attendees and we were pleased to see how many people had dressed up (most in Zampatti!) for the occasion. Set out like a traditional catwalk, the models were dressed in the most beautiful cuts – cascading petal-like sleeves, sheer material paired with sheer tights, and high waists gave a ladylike, even sexy, approach to dressing. Starting in all black the colour palette moved to creams, khakis, and then sky blue and emerald green. We definitely wanted to add a few pieces to cart, stat…
Day two: Tuesday 14 May 2024
Beare Park:
For founder of the brand Gabriella Pereira’s collection she effortlessly found a balance between dressing for the everyday, and for special occasions. No easy feat. In the new wing of the Art Gallery of NSW, at the Meers Hall, we saw beautifully constructed dresses in silk georgette with striking scooped backs juxtaposed against denim, cashmere and classic tailoring with both blazers and blazer dresses. We adored seeing Kiwi Label Yu Mei bags being carried down the runway. In a partnership that saw three bags and one belt hit the runway we noted the rich chocolate hued suede tote – and made a mental note to add to cart.
Bec + Bridge
Fashion enthusiasts were taken offsite to the Overseas Passenger Terminal in The Rocks, complete with stunning sunset views of the Sydney Opera House. Inside we saw oversized blazers, form fitting dresses with flowing hemlines, and lots and lots of metallic. From tops, to pants, and even silver boots – all things silver seem to be the colour du jour.
DFS The Innovators
Four Fashion Design Studio graduates – Samara Darling, Sara Marta, Renee Henderson, and Isabella Hoyle Davies – sent their respective labels’ collections down the expansive Gallery II runway and left no crumbs. It’s known that DFS is one of the most difficult and practical training for Australian designers (hence why they’ve produced some of the countries most revered labels) and it was evident in the technical skills, craftsmanship and vision exhibited this evening. Though contrastingly different, there were elements to be adored across all collections. The most memorable looks being by Bella Davies: the extrafine accordion-style pleating, the seashell motifs, and colours. To celebrate 25 years, the runway later transformed into an exhibition spotlighting FDS alumni, including Zimmermann, Dion Lee, Anna Quan, Christopher Esber, Hansen and Gretel (only to name a few).
Acler
For their Resort ‘25 collection, Acler served up a charcuterie board of looks to marvel from tropical colours, earth-inspired neutrals, abstract floral prints, and molten metallics. Resort-inspired silhouettes juxtaposed with sculptured tailoring and patchwork style denim were all anchored by their masterful techniques designed for the modern female form. But as per, it was the finer details (baguette-style earrings, organic shaped buttons, and oversized scrunch boots) that brought the swagger and balance to the overly-pretty ensembles emitting that Australia It-Girl vibe they’re known for.
Day three: Wednesday 15 May 2024
Third Form
What’s exciting about the Third Form’s re-FORM Resort ’25 collection is that new mother and director/designer Merryn Kelly created a showcase that was equally aspirational and wearable. There were garments that inspired us using ethereal techniques and clever styling and others we could pluck off the models and wear tomorrow. We adored the way she used lace applique in her dresses and continued its use as leggings worn underneath to pull the whole look off. Bags were larger than life (a micro — or should we say macro — trend we’re detecting) and colours were rich and monochromatic, a regular style code for the independent label. Following the close of the runway, Kelly came out to acknowledge the audience, visibly overcome with emotion before reaching for her wee bubba in the front row. A very sweet moment indeed.
Karla Špetić
Lace! Leggings! Lingerie! Karla’s approach to design has been described as a philosophical exploration into what it means to be a woman — weaving power, mysticism and fantasy into each collection. And the Resort ’25 showcase lived up to the hype. Immigrating to Australia from Dubrovnik, Croatia, in 1993, Karla’s ethereal collaboration between body and fabric is undeniable. Though we’ll hang tight on the bright blue semi-sheer lace catsuit, we definitely have our light on for the deconstructed blazers…
Anna Quan
We’ve had our eye on the beautiful pieces by Anna Quan for some time now, so it was no surprise we loved her pink-carpet AFW show. Pops of neon yellow were peppered between a more monochromatic colour palette of black and white. We loved seeing the blazer dresses and other classics that Quan is known for, but were also pleased to see an interesting play on waist proportions and necklines.
Romance Was Born
The set for Romance Was Born’s show could only be described as other-worldly – and we mean that quite literally. Suspended from the cavernous ceilings were enormous luminescent planets – the moon being the biggest and focal point for the show. The theme continued once the models came out wearing exquisitely adorned pieces – think beading, sequins, and extensive embroidery. It was full colour, full drama and we couldn’t get enough.
Day four: Thursday 16 May 2024
Blanca
Titled ‘Jardin’, the Blanca show was aptly set in the gardens of the Vaucluse House. Guests sat outside and breathed in the relaxed pieces, familiar silhouettes and the oversized shirts that are so synonymous with the label. Statement collars returned, boxy blazers, and sheer maxi skirts which all looked to be perfect transitional pieces for every woman’s wardrobe.
David Jones Indigenous Fashion Projects Runway
Showcasing five designers, this show – which closed our time at Australian Fashion Week – was one not to be missed. Weaving together stories of legacy, matriarchy, honour, connection, arrival and country, the designs looked to the past and heralded the future. We particularly loved Miimi & Jinda’s use of pattern, cuts and colours.
