When it comes to make-up, finding the right shades can feel like a lifelong guessing game — until you discover colour analysis. Grounded in the principles of tone, balance, and undertone, colour therapy is having a major moment (thank you, TikTok).
To decode the science — and the subtle art — behind it, we went to see Georgette Pollock-Johnston, colour therapist and founder of Styled by G. After she analysed my colours (I’m a true Autumn, thank you), I couldn’t help but wonder how this all related to the make-up I was putting on my face…
In conversation with Georgette Pollock-Johnston
How does colour analysis translate into make-up?
Colour analysis is about harmony. It’s finding the tones that make you look effortlessly alive. The same undertones that make a dress flattering are at play in your foundation, blush, and lipstick. When everything works together with your natural colouring, your skin looks fresher, your eyes brighter, and your make-up feels like an extension of you.
Can your season determine what make-up shades suit you best?
Yes. Each season represents a different blend of undertone, contrast, and clarity. Winters shine in cool, crisp hues like fuchsia or berry; Autumns glow in warmth — think copper and terracotta. Understanding your season takes the guesswork out of choosing colours.
What’s the easiest place to start?
Lipstick, without question. It’s the most immediate way to see colour harmony in action. But foundation is the real cornerstone. When your base matches your undertone perfectly, every other colour you apply just works better.
How important is understanding your skin’s undertone?
It’s everything. Your undertone dictates how every colour interacts with your skin. Once you know whether you’re warm, cool, or neutral — and the depth of your tone — it changes the game. You stop wasting money on foundations that oxidise or lipsticks that feel “off.” It’s the foundation (literally) of great make-up and natural radiance.
Are there universal shades that tend to suit everyone?
There are a few softer, balanced tones that flatter many — like a rosy brown lip or a neutral peach blush — but true colour harmony is deeply personal. What’s universal on one person can completely flatten another. When you find your best shades, they don’t just look right, they make your features come alive. That’s when people start saying, “You look amazing,” not “Your make-up looks great.”
How do you match your make-up to your seasonal palette without feeling restricted?
Think of your palette as a guide, not a rule book. Within that space, there’s so much room to play — with finishes, depth, and trends. Once you understand your undertone, even bold or experimental looks will feel cohesive. When your make-up is in harmony, your whole style feels more intentional.
What make-up mistakes do you most often see?
The most common issue is foundation that’s too warm or too cool — it immediately throws off your complexion. Then there’s lipstick that dominates rather than enhances. As Georgette says: we want to see you first, not the colour.
Can you wear a ‘wrong’ colour and still make it work?
Definitely. Colour analysis isn’t about rules, it’s about awareness. If you adore a shade that isn’t in your palette, balance it out. Pair that cooler lipstick with a warmer blush. Small adjustments can make a huge difference. Make-up should always feel joyful, not restrictive.
How does lighting affect colour choices?
Lighting changes everything. Always check your make-up in natural light when possible — it’s the most honest reflection. For evening, you can play with texture or depth, perhaps more sheen or contrast. But if your base tones are right, your look transitions beautifully from day to night.
Is there a difference between the colours that suit your wardrobe and your make-up palette?
They come from the same undertone, but they express themselves differently. Fabric reflects light, while make-up interacts with your skin’s pigments. A Summer might gravitate toward soft blues in clothing; her make-up might live in the rose, mauve, or cool taupe family. It’s the same language, just spoken in different textures.
How do hair colour changes impact which make-up tones suit you?
Changing your hair affects your overall contrast level, so your make-up might need slight rebalancing. A new brunette might need more definition in brows or lips, while a blonde may find softer blush and bronzer tones work best. Your core undertone doesn’t change — it’s just about adjusting intensity so everything feels cohesive again.
How has the resurgence of colour analysis on social media changed the way people think about beauty?
We’re moving away from chasing trends to understanding what personally works. People are realising that beauty isn’t about transformation — it’s about alignment.
This article originally appeared in Fashion Quarterly’s Summer 2025 issue.
Interview: Sarah Murray.
Imagery: Supplied.
