Breaking all the style rules: Rethinking fashion’s old playbook

25 February 2026
By Fashion Quarterly

In the past, women’s style was shaped by rigid rules. But if we were to rewrite those for the modern day, how would that go? Harriet Cowie investigates.

I came across an article pulled from an old fashion magazine the other day titled: ‘The Golden Rules of Style’. Bold, I thought, to dictate the dress sense of women en masse with a bullet-pointed piece, but undeterred, I read on. Most of the sartorial statutes were obvious relics: never clash orange and red, and your belt, handbag, and shoes should always match. Others were a smidge cruel: cheap will always look cheap, and it’s on the sale rack for a reason. Only one had aged well: buying well means buying once. Although largely outdated and unhelpful circa 2025, the list sparked a thought — in today’s cultural climate where style is personal and flexible, what would those rules look like?

Rather than being a list of literal dos and don’ts, I wagered that most would fall into value-based categories, such as establishing a personal style, enhancing self-confidence, and conscious consumerism. However, far from crowning myself the authority on all things aesthetic, I turned to the experts and asked five influential women in fashion to share their style code of conduct. And although their backgrounds, styles, cultures, and careers are resolutely unique, their collective wisdom is universal.

The stylist

Gigi Fernandez is a few steps ahead of the style zeitgeist. The New York-born, Los Angeles-based stylist is known for her dynamic, art-driven approach, pulling looks for the likes of Keke Palmer, Rosalía, and Becky G. Her work graces red carpets, music videos, and the pages of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, and Playboy, where Fernandez displays her talent for balancing chent vision with her own signature cool.

Fernandez’s personal style mantra is refreshingly straightforward: “If I can’t wear it a million different ways, it’s not coming home with me,” she says. “Versatility over everything. I’m a firm believer that you should wear your clothes… really wear them. I run my pieces into the ground because what’s the point of fashion if it just sits in your closet? The best items are the ones you can dress up, down, flip, twist, and make feel brand new every time.” Although her haute-raw Instagram page proves consumerism can be conscious and cutting-edge, Fernandez still issues a fair warning: “Be very careful of buying items that are super trendy.” Translation: fads fade, shop for the future.

Model Maia Cotton.
Under Armour campaign styled by Gigi Fernandez.

The model

As one of Aotearoa’s most successful models, Maia Cotton has spent her career working amongst the world’s finest fashion maisons. However, when your days are spent dressing up, it could be easy to lose track of your own style somewhere along the way – not for Cotton, though. The woman has her look on lock. “I have learnt over the years that effortless style comes from comfort,” says Cotton. “I tend to ditch things that dig or pull because tension shows. I believe if you feel good, you look good.” After a beat, she’s careful to add, “An exception to the rule being heels… I’ll still comply for heels.” Preach.

Aware of the fine (often elasticated) line between comfortable and unkempt, Cotton has a second helpful hint: “Never underestimate the power of hair. It doesn’t have to be complicated, but it’s often the detail that makes and polishes a final look.” One glance at her off-duty style confirms it: good hair and minimalist dressing are a potent pair.

The designer

While most of us spend our mornings mulling over what comes out of our wardrobes, Sophie Coote is occupied by what goes in. As co-founder and creative director of lauded Australian fashion house, SIR., Coote exists in fashion’s future, planning seasons ahead. Just like her modern, easy-to-wear collections, Coote’s advice centres around the women wearing the clothes, “It’s simple, dress for you!” she says. “When you know what makes you feel good, you exude confidence, and that’s the beauty of getting dressed – expressing yourself through clothes to feel your most confident self.”

Sophie Coote, creative director of SIR.
Behind the scenes of the SIR Resort '24 campaign.

The boutique owner

Olivia Vincent Healy echoes the notion of fashion as a form of empowerment. As the owner of Muse Boutique, Healy has a direct effect on the wardrobes of many wahine. Her team handpicks new season pieces from international fashion houses that exude style and staying power, cutting through the trends to curate timeless, thoughtful collections. When it comes to styling, Healy hits us with her characteristic, no-nonsense approach.

“Victoria Beckham said it best – cleavage or legs, never both,” she says wryly. “It’s not about modesty, it’s about mastering the art of balance. A few undone buttons on a crisp white shirt, tucked into great denim; a mini skirt, offset by the simplicity of a turtleneck. Personal style is the sweet spot between comfort and boldness. Start with what makes you feel strong, then add just a touch of the unexpected – that’s where the magic happens.”

The legend

Style exploration rings true with Kylie Bax, too. Few New Zealanders have left as indelible a mark on the international fashion scene as the Waikato-born supermodel who rose to fame in the nineties. With her iconic peroxide pixie cut, Bax fronted campaigns for Dior, Gucci, and Chanel, walked runways for top designers, and graced the covers of Vogue, Marie Claire, and Harper’s Bazaar. Embodying a rare blend of glamour and groundedness, she has remained an enduring voice of experience and perspective in an industry that thrives on reinvention.

Her rule? “Fashion is forever changing, and fashion can be a lot of fun,” says Bax. “Never let fashion dictate who you are, but let it inspire you.” It’s the kind of advice that can only be delivered by someone who has lived at the epicentre of fashion: part caution, part encouragement, and wholly valid.

Model Kylie Bax.
Kylie Bax on the cover of the March 1997 issue of Vogue France.

It’s safe to say that the old rules have been banished: Alessandro Michele’s Gucci proved colours can clash. High street x designer collaborations demonstrate that cheap can be chic. And no one notices (nor cares) whether your shoes match your bag. Where societal expectations once curbed women’s wardrobes, we now recognise that fashion should inspire rather than dictate. It isn’t about restriction, but, as these wise women have taught us, versatility, comfort, and confidence. There’s still room for rules, but they’re user-specific, changeable, and made to be broken. In the end, it all circles back to authenticity. If a rule works for you, keep it. If not, leave it on the rack.

Famous fashion rules 

1. “Buy less, choose well, make it last.” – Vivienne Westwood 

2. “Trendy is the last stage before tacky.” – Karl Lagerfeld 

3. “Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they notice the woman.” – Coco Chanel 

4. “Fashion should be a form of escapism, and not a form of imprisonment.” – Alexander McQueen 

5. “The only rule is don’t be boring and dress cute wherever you go. Life is too short to blend in.” – Paris Hilton 

6. “More is more and less is a bore.” – Iris Apfel 

This article originally appeared in Fashion Quarterly‘s Summer 2025 Issue. 

Words: Harriet Cowie 
Imagery: Supplied 

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