It’s 2025, and a woman wearing a well-cut suit shouldn’t raise eyebrows. And yet, there is something rousing about a woman who strides through life in a suit. She knows the weight of the world, and braces herself with bold shoulders.
The recent suiting star of runway shows has been Saint Laurent. The French maison dressed models in double-breasted jackets bolstered by shoulder pads and winged lapels, and paired with knife-pleat pants. It’s fitting, given Saint Laurent’s eponymous founder was the first to seriously design a suit for women — ‘Le Smoking’ in 1966. “For a woman, the tuxedo is an indispensable garment in which she will always feel in style,” were his eternal words. “Fashion fades, style is eternal.” Even so, early shoppers of this Saint Laurent suit were heckled at haughty establishments, including the Paris Opera. Famously, in 1968, New York socialite Nan Kempner was denied entry to La Côte Basque, and to get past the dress code (which forbade women wearing pants), she took off her trousers and wore her smoking jacket alone as a dress.
A decade later, Helmut Newton photographed ‘Le Smoking’, as worn by model and actor Vibeke Knudsen (also smoking) down a Parisian alleyway and created an iconic image that still smoulders today. Newton knew that the suit symbolised strength and sexuality — it’s a subversive womenswear category with a long history. Women were wearing pants long before it was ‘in fashion.’ In the 1930s, Marlene Dietrich wore tuxedos and double-breasted suits in her sultry films, and she was the first woman to commission a bespoke suit on London’s Savile Row. Fellow screen siren (and suffragette’s daughter) Katharine Hepburn also made a point of wearing menswear, often ordering from Savile Row’s Huntsman.
Suiting styles soon made their way to Aotearoa. As the New Zealand Fashion Museum documents, Auckland salon owners Julia and Trilby Yates caused an outcry when walking down Queen Street in a pair of trousers in 1933 — though orders to their shop soon followed. While standards of dress have become more casual and seen many men forgo wearing full suits, they are now returning as a fashion statement.
In 2023, Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s show at Paris Fashion Week exhibited suits and tailoring inspired by American Psycho, with some models also sporting blood splatters. An on-trend moment, given that author of American Psycho Bret Easton Ellis is working on a new book and there are talks of another film adaption of his hit (with designer costumes).
Yet, it is a troubling ‘look’ when a legally defined sexual predator is back in the White House, and recent reports, such as from the Institute for Strategic Dialogue, along with institutions both domestic and international, show how misogyny is running rampant, and continues to rise, online particularly in social media.
On balance, womenswear has also tapped into the trend with suits that seem to have stepped right off Wall Street in the ’80s — just like the film’s protaganist Patrick Bateman. For a recent shoot with The Cut, actor Chloë Sevigny modelled the sharpest examples, including Saint Laurent, McQueen, and Burberry. Sevigny starred in the original American Psycho film as a victim, and has spoken out about being intimidated on set. To see her wearing such bold suits— with slashings of red suspenders — flips the script.
In New Zealand — the first country to give women the vote — our designers have perfected strong suiting for women. “Suiting has always been for the individual, so perhaps the secret is in the details,” says Elisabeth Findlay of Zambesi. “After 45 years of design, we now have a comprehensive archive and wardrobe to draw on, and an incredible creative team to work with. Our suits are also proudly made in Aotearoa, so we carefully oversee every aspect of construction.”
The Zambesi team encourages its customers to experiment and find their own sense of style, and they lead from the front. “Personally, I have never wanted to look pretty or cute. I’ve always wanted to look like ‘me’, which I suppose is a departure from the traditionally feminine,” says Findlay. “I purchased a men’s Dior suit from a vintage shop in my early 20s and always felt so special wearing it. I’ve always been drawn to suiting fabrics, which immediately inspire me to create suiting silhouettes.”
For Findlay, a well-constructed suit has shape-shifting abilities. “I believe what it does for women especially, is it elevates you. When you put a suit on, it feels like there’s a shift in your perception of self. There’s a formality about the shoulder pads and the structure of the jacket,” she says. “Suits give you a defined silhouette, they’re a practical piece you can throw on without having to think too much. And they’re versatile — you can team a suit with virtually anything. I love that suits create a bit of a question mark, a sense of mystery.”
Co-founders of Harris Tapper, Sarah Harris Gould and Lauren Tapper, also understand that the most important element of a suit is the woman wearing it. “Wearing something where you feel like a better version of yourself is the easiest way to feel power,” Harris Gould says. “Dress in cuts, colours, and proportions that feel like you.”
Harris Tapper works with a skilled tailoring pattern-maker who’s made some of their favourite pieces. “It involves lots of iterations and refinements, usually by the smallest increments,” Tapper says. “Sometimes it’s just the very subtle angle of a seam on a collar edge, or placement of pocket. We consider these tiny elements as important as overall proportion and fabrication. All these details, no matter how small, have a gravitational pull towards excellence.” One of their styling tips is to balance traditional looks with new proportions. Harris Tapper’s Tilmens blazer, paired with the Adam trouser, borrows from ’50s and ’60s tailoring but is recontextualised in bonded fabric — feeling fresh for everyday.
Dadelszen is another New Zealand label tailored to perfection. “We focus on cuts that are timeless and the highest quality fabrics,” says Constance von Dadelszen. Not coincidentally, von Dadelszen has long been inspired by Helmut Newton’s ‘Le Smoking’. “I was heavily influenced by the image when we designed our first tuxedo jacket for women almost seven years ago, and it’s still our most popular style.”
Wearing a full suit to an evening event still holds the same allure. “There is definitely a certain nonchalant confidence in a woman choosing to wear a suit rather than a gown or dress,” she says. “I’ve never quite been able to put my finger on it but a perfectly tailored suit does give a certain aura to the wearer.” A suit is a solid investment, but if you don’t have the funds, there is a workaround. “Scour vintage retail sites or good thrift stores, look and feel the fabric, and choose natural fibres and labels that are clearly vintage — 25 plus years old.”
When shopping for a retro look, it’s important to keep proportions in mind. “I think the massively oversized silhouette is waning, as realistically it was a hard style for many to wear,” says von Dadelszen. “We are now seeing a more refined version of the style, with a strong but narrower shoulder. Wide-leg pleated pants are very popular as opposed to the straight-leg styles of the last five years.”
For those who mean business, W by Working Style offers a made-to- measure service for women, drawing on 24 years of experience in men’s suits. “The suit has always been a powerful symbol of confidence and style, and for us, the timing of entering the world of made-to-measure suiting for women has been perfect,” says style director Sharon Orquejo. “We’ve been inspired by visionary female leaders who have broken boundaries and redefined power dressing, and we’ve had the privilege of dressing corporate women and those celebrating special moments in their lives.”
For a modern look, Orquejo suggests prioritising comfort and versatility, even in a sophisticated suit. “Our made-to-measure customers are increasingly opting for more relaxed fits in their blazers— think soft-shouldered, unstructured designs that offer a bit more freedom and ease,” she says. “The days of super-tight, form-fitting cuts are behind us. Instead, a looser silhouette allows for better movement without sacrificing style.”
A great suit should be able to take you anywhere. “It’s about finding pieces that work in multiple contexts, whether for work, dinner, or the weekend, without compromising on style. The latest look is all about mixing and matching, keeping it effortless, and making sure your suit adapts to your lifestyle,” she says. “When a suit fits well and reflects a woman’s personal style, it’s more than just clothing — it’s a tool for self-assurance and success.” To move through the world feeling a little lighter, that’s what we all really want.
SUITING TIPS STRAIGHT FROM SAVILE ROW
Six elements to consider when shopping from Magdalena Handwerker, Head Ladieswear Cutter at Huntsman.
Careful inspection
Start with the fabric — feel it, examine it under good light. A quality suit uses high-grade wool, often with natural elasticity and a fine weave. Look at the stitching inside and out; clean, tight, and even stitches are hallmarks of craftsmanship. Check the construction: a well-made suit has a full canvas or half-canvas structure, which gives it shape, durability, and a natural drape.
The tailoring
The shoulders must fit perfectly; they’re nearly impossible to alter. Beyond that, adjust the sleeves to show about half an inch of shirt cuff and tailor the jacket’s waist for a sharper silhouette. Trousers should have the correct length — just grazing the top of your shoes for a clean finish. A small nip at the seat and waist of the trousers can elevate the look.
When going bespoke
The right bespoke house will listen carefully. It’s not just about measurements but understanding your lifestyle, preferences, and personality. They will guide you through every detail, from fabric selection to the button stance. Pay attention to the atmosphere and how you’re treated — does it feel collaborative, respectful, and precise? Finally, look at their work on others or their sample garments: the finesse in finishing speaks volumes.
Transcend trends
A classic single-breasted, two-button suit in a neutral colour, such as navy or charcoal remains timeless. Peak lapels and double-breasted styles also exude sophistication. Opt for subtle patterns such as pinstripes or herringbone if you prefer some texture. Simplicity with a focus on fit stands the test of time.
Suit care
Brush it gently after each wear to remove dirt and lint. Always hang it on a broad, wooden hanger to maintain the shape. Let your suit rest for at least a day between wears, as this helps the fabric recover. Store it in a breathable garment bag to protect against dust and moths, and dry-clean sparingly — over-cleaning can degrade the fibres. Press it with a cloth to avoid shiny patches and always address small repairs promptly.
What’s underneath
Never underestimate the power of a well-fitted blouse or shirt and impeccable shoes. Accessories such as ties or belts should complement, not overwhelm. And enjoy the process; a great suit is an investment in yourself, boosting confidence and leaving a lasting impression.
Words by: Jessica-Belle Greer
Imagery: Supplied
