Some may say that bad things come in threes, but the dynamic trio behind Mise Label prove otherwise. Founded by Kiwi-born, Sydney-based friends Micaela Bailey, Margot Phillips, and Cayleigh du Plessis, the brand emerged from their shared desire to create swimwear that transcends mere aesthetics. Launched only a year ago, Mise’s designs have already graced British Vogue — a significant coup for a label so new. ”Mise, to us, is a feeling,” the trio explains, “It’s centered around luck, being in the right place at the right time, surrounded by good people.” This sentiment feels particularly apt given the brand’s name — ‘Mise’ translates to ‘bet’ in French. A lucky bet, indeed.
Championing a structured yet delicate aesthetic, the founders work with a small team of makers in Bali to craft their collections. Each piece within their range is made using locally sourced fabrics, and many feature thoughtful details such as Italian beading or resin centerpieces. “It’s that delicate balance of understated femininity whilst remaining structured and allowing our customers to feel confident wherever they are.” Setting themselves apart from other swimwear labels, Mise styles are intended to be worn not just to the beach but beyond. ”Mise pieces are made to move with you, through unforgettable moments,” the founders say. Whether styled with a blazer or underneath a sheer dress in summer time, the vision is for their designs to fit seamlessly into the wearer’s wider repertoire.
While still in its infancy, the immediate focus for the founders is growth. Wanting to cater to their community on both sides of the ditch, they’ll be hosting an Auckland event in the near future and a more intimate evening for their supporters in Sydney to celebrate the brand’s first birthday.“Beyond that, we continue to find inspirations in new experiences and experimenting with new and custom finishes with more intricate detailing. It’s a Mise summer all year round!”
The words ‘girlish’ and ‘whimsical’ may come to mind when you view Lucinda Babi’s collections — but there’s more to this brand than its first impressions. Founded in 2018 by UK-born, Naarm / Melbourne-based creative Lucinda Houghton, there’s an underlying grittiness that pervades her designs, informed largely by her working-class upbringing in Manchester.
Like many young designers, Houghton struggled to find an industry job after graduating from university, which ultimately led her down the path to founding her own label. “As someone with a constant drive to express myself creatively, I decided to start designing and producing garments myself, and established my design practice under the label Lucinda Babi,” she says. ‘Babi’ was a nickname given to her by one of her close friends, which she combined with her first name to establish her brand. “I can’t recall exactly why, but Babi means ‘pig’ in Indonesian and one of [my] friends is Balinese — so when I set up an Instagram account to document my projects, the handle was @lucindababi.”
Describing her aesthetic as “femininity through a lens of escapism, storytelling, and cultural references”, Houghton’s most recent collection ‘Coming Home’, is a particularly nostalgic one. “The collection drew inspiration from interior decoration as a visual theme, and more deeply from the connection we have with the idea of home,” she explains. Through statement pieces like the ‘Banquet’ top, she tells a story of comfort and opulence, with references to her British heritage. Her ‘Athletico’ top is one example — a pink soccer jersey that has become the shirt du jour for the It girls.
At its core, Lucinda Babi is a brand committed to “fusing beautiful and engaging designs with values of sustainability and craftsmanship.” Each garment is made-to-order by hand in her Collingwood studio, making Houghton one of a growing number of creatives striving to produce thoughtful, slow fashion. “I’m currently working on developing my new collection to be partially released in late 2024, which touches upon some of the themes I’ve mentioned [previously] and feels particularly true to me as a designer,” Houghton says. “I’m really excited to get this one ready to share with the world.”
Bijoux Gallery is nested in a cosy spot on Ponsonby’s main drag in Tāmaki Makaurau / Auckland, where artist Chyna-Lily Tjauw Rawlinson crafts her timeless trinkets by hand. As a fourth- generation jewellery maker, Rawlinson is following in the footsteps of both her father and grandfather; her father has owned Bijoux since 1988. “Being able to learn the generational trade while they are both still actively making has been rewarding,” she explains. “The family business has offered commissions for over 30 years now, it’s beautiful to see regular customers wearing pieces they have cherished for years.” Joining in the family trade wasn’t always the goal for Rawlinson. “I’ve always had an interest in a creative career, which led me to study fine arts,” she says. “During my undergrad, I focused on film photography, but during my postgraduate study, my family background in metalwork and jewellery inspired me to pursue welding and metal sculpture.”
Chills itself was launched in 2022, originally conceived as an archival project to document Rawlinson’s progress as a jeweller. Very quickly, she carved out a niche for herself within the existing market, specialising in custom pieces and unique items alongside her range of elegant everyday staples. “My clients are typically mindful and sentimental collectors,” says Rawlinson. “The pieces are made to last a lifetime, sometimes featuring a personalised gemstone or engraving, if not repurposing a heirloom to create a contemporary piece.” Since establishing Chills, Rawlinson has collaborated with local creatives, including FQ-favourite Caitlin Snell and graphic designer Matthew Yee. Her most recent partnership was with Yee, whom she commissioned to create 12 original artworks depicting the Chinese Zodiacs in honour of Lunar New Year. Available in a range of ring and pendant shapes, customers could select a zodiac engraving of their choice. “Having a collection that involved the input of the customers throughout the design process proved successful as they came to identify not only with their chosen zodiac, but their stylistic choices led to a greater sense of ownership over the result,” says Rawlinson.
In a time where Aotearoa’s fashion industry has been doing it tough, Rawlinson’s collaborative spirit is refreshing and exciting. Her next big undertaking will be an exhibition-style fashion show in November hosted by Caitlin Snell, where a range of Chills jewellery will be featured and available for purchase. “Working with and supporting other young artists is one of the most exciting parts of creating new jewels,” Rawlinson explains, “All my collaborations have been with close friends, where we’ve been able to highlight each other’s strengths, uplift one another, and learn in unexpected ways to create something unique.”
Words: Amberley Colby
Images: Supplied
