Day two of NZFW ended on a high with Kathryn Wilson’s runway show which showcased 20 multi-coloured wig clad models strutting down the runway in leather shorts, frilly dresses, and Kathryn Wilson shoes. But one thing that caught our attention was the glitzy makeup that was a world away from the no makeup makeup look we’d seen at NZFW to date. We speak to the man behind the makeup, Nandan Bhat, to find out more…
Can you describe the overall make-up concept you designed for this runway show? What inspired your creative direction?
The initial idea that Kathryn Wilson and the team had come to us with was fun, flirty colours with an element and an overall feeling of love and being in love and the visual reference being Jem and the Holograms and a general 1980’s aesthetic. That led me down a rabbit hole of late-70’s and 80’s makeup aesthetics and apart from this, I drew a lot of inspiration from the Bowie and early Madonna aesthetics. I am also inspired by traditional Indian bridal beauty designs and aspects of the look were also an homage to these and my heritage.
Did you have a favourite look?
My personal favourite was definitely the halo eye – I had a lot of fun creating it. I think it is a beautiful juxtaposition of bold colour with soft romanticism and innocence. That play on elements is what defines me as an artist.
What products did you use?
For the skincare
The skin was common across both looks; iconic Lancôme skincare such as Advanced Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate and Absolue Soft Cream were used to hydrate the skin and create the glow, alongside our new powerhouse Rénergie H.C.F Serum to brighten skin. We used the new Teint Idole Ultrawear Care & Glow foundation, infused with amazing skincare ingredients like Mandelic acid to perfect the skin without adding too much coverage.
For the make-up
Lancôme Blush Subtil in 375 Pink Intensely was paired with the Hypnôse Eyeshadow Palette in 09 Fraîcheur Rosée and a sustainably sourced, biodegradable loose glitter was used to create the halo eye. We then combined this with Lancôme’s L’Absolu Rouge lipstick in 388 Rose used both on the cheek as a dewy blush and the lips. For the graphic blue eyeliner look, we used the matte, electric blue shade in the Lancôme Hypnôse Palette in 15 Bleu Hypnotic as the liner, combined with the same biodegradable loose glitter as the previous look. We also used L’Absolu Rouge lipstick in number 274 French Tea on the cheek and lip.
How easily do you think the everyday woman could adapt the look you created for themselves?
Very easily! Both looks are simple enough to recreate and they can definitely be toned down to be more wearable – all you need is a fluffy eyeshadow brush for the halo eye and a good eyeliner brush for the liner! And the right products, of course!
How did you collaborate with Kathryn Wilson to ensure the make-up complemented the clothing and overall theme of the show?
Communication really is key. We communicated back and forth with Kathryn to make sure that the looks also aligned with her vision and were also open to feedback and modifications.
Were there any specific challenges you encountered while working on the models’ make-up for the runway? How did you overcome them?
The biggest challenge would have to have been the loose glitter – it has a tendency to go everywhere. One has to be really precise with the amount of glue used and also we have to ensure that there is a minimal amount of makeup product underneath it. Using fingers to then stick the glitter on ensured there was minimal mess.
Runway lighting can be quite different from everyday lighting. How did you adjust your makeup techniques to ensure the models looked stunning both on and off the runway?
It is important with any makeup look to step back and have a look at it in all lights. In the backstage context where time is of the essence, we made sure to look at the makeup both in backstage lighting as well as in brighter lights. I also made sure to keep key elements like the skin very simple so they could be modified easily if need be.
How did you infuse your personal style into the make-up looks while staying true to the show’s requirements?
Having grown up in Indian culture and also in the Middle East, beauty routines from both cultures have always been very dear to my heart. I used the stars that were in a few of the looks to pay homage to Indian bridal beauty designs as well as be a reference to the ’80s aesthetic.
