It was idyllic weather once again for the FQ team’s final full day at NZFW: Kahuria. From start to finish, we had the privilege of watching both up-and-coming and established designers debut their freshest designs to fresh eyes.
We started off on a high with Viva‘s Next Gen show, who reminded us just how much emerging talent we have here in Aotearoa, before moving onto Jockey and KaistorSt, who offered us engaging shows of drastically different tones.
With two industry icons, Zambesi and Kate Sylvester, showing at the end of the day, we knew we were in for a treat. We sipped champagne while watching Zambesi’s beautifully curated display by the waterfront and capped things off in style at Kate Sylvester’s 30-year anniversary collection – an ode to her incredible legacy in the industry.
Reflecting on everything we’ve seen over the last three days, it’s fair to say that NZFW has welcomed a new vibe this year. The mood has been high, the level of talent and artistry has been immeasurable, and we’re excited to see what the future has in store for the event.
Read on for our recap of each show:
Viva Next Generation
Starting strong, Viva‘s Next gen show featured collections from some of Aotearoa’s best emerging designers, including Nicole van Vuuren, Oosterom, J. Bush, Flying Fox, LIPO. and Su’mar. The styling, which was highlight, felt deliberate and relatable for their intended consumer. Though we loved each of the designers we saw, some standouts included Oosterom, whose contemporary, wearable designs had us mentally adding everything to cart, Su’mar’s delicate dresses and crinkled satin fabrics, and J.Bush’s selection of considered tailoring that had focal points to complement the female form.
Jockey
Upping the tempo today was the house of Jockey with a runway covered in charming 2D lamp post illustrations, music by Daft Punk, Ja’s ‘Makeba’ and Peggy Gou, and a plethora of well known names and faces. While we’re not the best people to recognise the Kiwi athletes that featured, what we can tell you is that the brand stayed true to their signature styles. Classic briefs, camis and bras featured in botanical prints, as well as blush pinks, sage greens and grey. A highlight for us was seeing content creator and FQ contributing writer Jess Molina own the catwalk.
KaistorSt
Before making our way outside for Zambesi’s spectacular golden hour show, we were serenaded upstairs at KaistorSt. With creative Nichola Te Kiri (Ngāi Tūhoe) at the helm of the label, the show was a celebration of the designer’s heritage, her love of the environment, and her upbringing. Unique and interesting textures and accessories were a central focus in the collection; the designer showcased knitwear, metals and tassel detailing on the runway. Models walked ethereally to the voice of Māori singer Jaedyn Randell whose dreamy voice could no doubt be heard throughout the entire venue.
Zambesi
We couldn’t have asked for better weather for Zambesi, who opted to debut their SS24 collection at Park Hyatt Auckland against the backdrop of Tāmaki Makaurau’s Viaduct Basin. Staying true to the brand’s roots, we saw a sea of black pieces move down the runway, peppered with accents of pink and sage, statement embroidery and sheer organza. There were structured masculine silhouettes juxtaposed with sexy, draped garments, and the entire collection had an extremely grungy yet wearable Y2K feel. “The emphasis on unlikely combinations appeals to me and one’s individual interpretation to explore and dress for themselves has always been the backbone of our brand,” says Zambesi founder and designer, Elisabeth Findlay, on the collection.
Kate Sylvester
Capping the day’s programme of shows was Kate Sylvester’s 93 23 collection. A visual feast for the eyes, Kate’s collection employed a vibrant range of colours to evoke joy, imagining iconic silhouettes old and new. To acknowledge 30 years in business, the backdrop featured handcrafted pattern pieces suspended against various neon colours which changed throughout the show. Preppy knits, tailored denim, leather bloomers, and utilitarian coats swanned down the runway ( pun intended) alongside red scarf prints, pink suits, and grey check separates. The beauty direction by Emma Peters from Aleph Beauty included dewy complexions, rosy blushing cheeks, and varying intensities of cherry red lipsticks. The styling was minimalist, clean, and uplifted the outfits in typical Kate Sylvester fashion. Read: white block heels with a softened square toe and chunky silver choker chain necklaces with a crown motif. Colleen’s Sean Mahoney kept the hair natural, primarily sweeping the model’s tresses into low slung knots or leaving those with natural texture and curls loosely out. The music was loud, the mood was positive, and the lasting impression was strong.
A special selection of Kate Sylvester pieces are available to shop in-store and online now.
