Jolin Shanghai
248 Dominion Rd, Mt Eden

At Jolin Shanghai, owner Lei ‘Kelvin’ Zhang was happy to demonstrate how he makes xiao long bao, starting with creating the dough from flour and water. The filling comprises a gelatinous extract from pork skin and collagen from the bones that liquefies into a soupy, flavoursome juice after the dumplings have been steamed for the requisite amount of time. Although the process of making them is time-consuming, Kelvin adheres to the traditional tenets. $9 for eight.

Yi Pin Xiang
113 Meadowland Drive, Somerville

Some of the best xiao long bao can be had at the very busy Yi Pin Xiang restaurant. Here, all the chefs hail from Shanghai and a serving of 10 bao comes beautifully pleated and divided between two steamers. These well-crafted bao are filled with quality cuts of pork with no artificial enhancers. $9.50 for 10.

Tianze Dumpling House
695 Sandringham Rd, Sandringham

Over at the motorway end of Sandringham, Tianze Dumpling House – which made the Top 10 in Metro’s Cheap Eats 2017 – has 17 types of dumplings on offer. If you want really fresh xiao long bao, call the day before to place your order. Chef Levi Sun’s bao are bigger than most (15g of dough to 25g meat filling), but the fillings, in their well-made pleated casings, are very good. $12 for eight.

Mix
487 New North Road, Kingsland

Recently opened in Kingsland, smart asian fusion restaurant Mix serve their pork and ginger xiao long bao with red vinegar and julienned ginger. $6 for four.

Tao Restaurant
61 Davis Crescent, Newmarket

In Newmarket, the hip Tao Restaurant offers xiao long bao tapas style – you get four delectable dumplings with the added bonus of red and black vinegars, light soy and chilli oil. $6 for four.

White & Wong’s
149 Quay Street, Viaduct Harbour

White & Wong’s is a fusion restaurant that makes a good xiao long bao. The filling is chicken and lemongrass, encased in a well-pleated bao. It’s served with criss-crossed julienned ginger. $10 for four.

Artwok Eatery & Bar
152 Hurstmere Rd, Takapuna

Over on the North Shore, some of Auckland’s best xiao long bao are at Takapuna’s Artwok Eatery & Bar. Made by pastry chef Jing Wang, aka Mrs Wang, from Shandong, these are quite substantial, meaning there’s all the more to eat and slurp (in very smart surroundings). The dipping sauce on offer is a mild Chinese black vinegar with julienned ginger. $14 for four.

There are several other restaurants over the Harbour Bridge that offer xiao long bao, including Lucky Seafood Restaurant (Unit A8, 125 Meadowland Drive, Somerville); Star Seafood (pictured), a two-level restaurant at The Hub, Botany Town Centre (451 Ti Rakau Drive, Botany – be prepared to queue at the weekends); and the Imperial Palace in Mount Wellington (519 Ellerslie-Panmure Highway). The Royal Dumpling and Noodle (776 Manukau Road, Royal Oak) also has decent xiao long bao on its all-day yum cha menu.