STAY
The well-situated and beautifully appointed All Day Place in Shibuya is eco-friendly in the most understated way. In true Japanese style, its rooms come complete with freshly laundered sleepwear and slippers, a selection of lovely teas and the chicest bio-toothbrush and toothpaste I’ve ever seen, plus there was none of the over-fragranced-hotel vibe you so often get when travelling, which is guaranteed to give me a headache.
SUP
We had an incredible grill and sashimi meal at hole-in-the-wall Yuji (ask for the chef’s recommendations), and an exceptional late-night degustation at Ikyu. The only rules are: be open-minded and ask questions; the Japanese love introducing you to their specialities, so if you show an interest and a willingness to try, you’ll be showered with hospitality.
SHOP
There’s no two ways about it, Tokyo is an absolute shopper’s heaven. A favourite for me is the Nose Shop flagship in Shinjuku, which has an incredible mix of top niche perfumes from around the world, a perfume-sample vending machine and a giant nose on the wall. The backstreets of Shibuya are great for seeking out something special. Cute boutique Number Me stocks classic vintage such as Gucci loafers alongside new fashion and lifestyle items from local designers. Hidden up four flights of stairs, 10tow is a treasure trove of vintage and secondhand; I picked up a Yohji Yamamoto silk vest.
